Fitbit Sense & Apple Watch

I'm not going to lie.  I sort of miss my Fitbit Sense.  It's interface and capabilities are less complicated than the Apple Watch, which leads to better ease of use.  I feel that Fitbit's health monitoring capabilities are better - my Sense counts steps and stairs more accurately than my AW.  I'm sure it monitors sleep patterns far better than anything Apple produces, too.

I'd have stayed with Fibit if they'd make their products more reliable.  They're cheaper than Apple Watches but not by much - and they certainly aren't so cheap that I'm willing to buy a new one every thirteen or fourteen months.  Even if they died before the 1-year manufacturer warranty, it took Fitbit nearly two months to get me a replacement.

AW S8 - Battery Tracking; Activity Tracking

So, the AW's battery got as low as 20% today, before I decided to charge it. Between the last time I charged it and this afternoon, I changed the display settings:  I enabled AOD and allowed the display to show full-time.  I noticed a sharp drop-off of charge capacity between this morning and this afternoon.  Still, I got 2.5 days of use out of it before it needed charging (and I didn't run it down to 0% charge).

I charged it to 95% before I had to take it with me on a walk this afternoon.  I enabled Activity maybe 5 min into the walk (I hadn't messed with it until today).  10 min later it detected the walk and had already had the timer set to 10 min.  I enabled it to continue tracking and when I was done, I stopped the tracking.  I got really good feedback from that 20 min walk!  I will have to do this more often.

I'll also charge the AW again tonight then track how long the charge will last with AOD enabled the whole time.  I will then charge the AW and disable AOD and track how that charge's duration.

AW S8 - The First Few Days

I charged up the AW for the first time yesterday morning.  30 hours later, I checked it's battery level and it's at 48%.  That's not bad at all.

Keep in mind that I have the GPS model (probably uses less power than the cell/GPS model).  I also have AOD (Always On Display) enabled, with Wake on Wrist Raise and Wake on Crown Rotation.

One problem I've noticed is that the AW won't wake upon raising my wrist.  I'm not sure what's up with that.  I'll need to look into that.

I like how I can manipulate music that's playing on my iPhone, too.

I've settled on a watch face.  I've chosen Modular and edited it to show white lettering on black background:

This watch has soooo many configuration options, some that I'll probably never use.

One thing I didn't count on was choosing an AW with the wrong size wrist band.  I didn't even see that option when purchasing, and ended up getting the small band.  It fits but I've to use the last or 2nd to last hole in the band when wearing the watch.

As well, before purchasing, I had a bad time choosing a watch color.  At first I selected Midnight Blue but then changed my mind, as I remember folks complaining about their Macbooks losing paint easily (scratches and wear marks).  I chose silver and I'm OK with that.  It looks similar to my Sense in that regard.

Why didn't I get the stainless steel version?  If I did that, I may as well have purchased the Ultra...they aren't far off in price.  I already know I'm going to get bent over in trade value, so I definitely didn't want to spend $700 on ANY watch.  Stainless steel looks good, but I don't want SS so bad that I've to pay $700+ for it.

Will I get a screen protector?  Probably not.  I'm more than likely going to get AppleCare+ and just use the watch without worry.

I Bought the Apple Watch Series 8!

I was supposed to wait a while before purchasing an Apple Watch, and it was supposed to be a Series 7, but I saw that Amazon was having a sale, specifically the Amazon Prime Early Access sale that occurred on 11-12 October.  I wasn't even aware of the sale until 12 October at maybe 9 PM.

I ended up purchasing a Series 8 45mm GPS model in silver aluminum, for $379.  That price was good enough to where I decided not to pass it up.  I didn't want the steel version, as there's no way I'm going to spend $700 on ANY smartwatch, which also left out the Ultra.  NO SMARTWATCH IS WORTH THAT MUCH.

I ended up ordering it the day before I went on vacation to New England.  It's already been delivered at my home and it's awaiting me to open it.

Yes, I deviated from my plan of purchasing the Series 7, but that watch would've been refurbished if I'd chosen to buy it from Apple.  I'd thought to buy the Series 7 through Amazon, but didn't want to worry about Apple not offering support with refurbished Series 7s and didn't know if I could find new Series 7s on Amazon.

I really didn't want to worry about support (if the watch ever had an issue) and wanted the max support duration possible, so Series 8 was the best choice.  I'm also tired of always getting older tech equipment, so this time I bought something that's been recently released.

I'll eventually be buying a watchband for this watch.

The Fitbit Sense will be used at night only (it has good sleep tracking) and maybe for workouts (it has great workout detection and tracking - probably much better than the Series 8).

I'll document my experiences with this watch on this blog.

Fitbit Sense Replacement

As you've previously read, I had problems with an 8-month old Fitbit Sense - it refused to restart and was stuck in a reboot loop where it would never progress beyond the Fitbit logo screen.

Fitbit, after spending 8-10 days evaluating the broken Sense that I'd sent back to them, sent a replacement.  The replacement arrived 2 days early, which is surprising since it took so long in being delivered from my address to Fitbit's return facility.

The replacement Sense appeared to be prepackaged in a plastic bag with standard Fitbit labeling.  I received nothing other than the pebble itself - no watchband, no charging cable or any other accessory.

It started without issue.  I immediately installed my third party metal band.  I then synched it to my phone using the Fitbit iPhone app.

It came with a 70% charge, but I wanted it topped off.  The charging cable that came with the original watch is not working properly, and I found that out during troubleshooting of the broken watch (this is a known issue - the spring-loaded pins on the charging cable loses it's "spring" the pins no longer make contact with the watch).  I'd ordered two new ones from Amazon.com a few months ago.  I used one of  them to charge the watch.  When I connected it, the watch black-screened.  My first thought was that this watch also died, as the first one die.  I watched it go to the Fitbit logo screen, thinking it would loop back - it started without issue.  I'm not sure why it crashed.  I'd just received it less than an hour prior to that.

This watch brand is very much untrustworthy in the extreme.  While I'm glad I've another Sense, I'm waiting for this one to stop working.  I do not want to go back to my Samsung Watch - while it is nice and it works, this Sense should also work (and stay working).

This Sense will soon be replaced.  I conducted some research the past few days and decided I do not want another Fitbit.  

At first, I was considering the new Sense 2 but Google appears to have severely nerfed it - whereas the Sense is a legit smartwatch, Google has removed a lot of the smart aspects of the Sense technology from the Sense 2, intentionally neutering it so that their new Google Pixel smartwatch can be better competitive.  That is sad as hell.  The biggest changes to the Sense to is that the watch is no longer capable of controlling music (which most folks use on Senses when working out) and they've disabled WiFi.

As well, the Google Pixel is not compatible with iPhones, so both the Sense 2 and the Pixel are not options for me.  One of the things I love about my Sense is that it's not locked to a specific OS. 

Garmin isn't an option, as it's fitness and health technology is the least robust in the smartwatch industry.  I want a versatile watch and Garmin appears to be tracking-centric.

Samsung isn't an option, as it's software is WearOS (Google and Samsung are joint developers of WearOS), which is not compatible with iPhones.

It appears I may be locked to Apple's Watch.  Apple Watch isn't a bad platform at all, but I'd prefer to not be locked to any particular platform - the industry is becoming silo'd and that's not a good thing for a consumer that wants options regardless of the phone brand he/she is using.

Of the Apple Watches, I want something that's supported and do not want to worry about Apple dropping hardware or software support any time soon.  That means I won't be getting any legacy Apple Watches.  I'll be focusing on either the Series 7 or 8.

In comparing the 7 and 8, the 8 may be newly released but it doesn't offer a lot more tech over the Series 7. The best thing about the Series 8 option is that I would have even longer support.  The con of the Series 8 in comparison to the 7 is that it'll cost more for not-so-much tech advantage.

I'm trying to keep costs low and I think I will look at refurbished Series 7 Watches.  

I looked at Best Buy's refurb Series 7s and their prices are high. As of 10/8/2022, the price for a certified used S7 45mm GPS Watch is $389!  They also offered taking trade-in watches, and I was curious so I checked what they'd give for a new Sense, but they only offer $25 for Senses - WTF.  This is what I hate about the technology world and why I keep everything that I have...all they're going to do is take your $25 trade-in and sell it to someone or sell it themselves for $100.  F that.

Amazon sells Series 7 re-certified Watches, but I've been told that Apple will sometimes not honor warranty claims on watches bought from Amazon.  The pricing on those phones weren't bad, though, so Amazon would've been a good option (while also buying 3rd party warranties through Amazon, which I should've done with the Sense when I bought it) if I hadn't have found an even cheaper option.

Note that I'm looking for a specific version of Series 7 Watch:  45mm, Space Gray, GPS variant.

I found that Apple carries Series 7s on their Certified Apple website.  I found what I wanted there and the cost is $313.  I don't have the money now, but I might have to do something soon because Series 7s are pretty much the rage at this point in time, as the public is now aware that the Series 8 has no huge advantage over the Series 7, and now folks with older than Series 7 Watches are now trying to buy Series 7 watches.

The plan is to get a 45mm GPS variant Series 7 within the next few months, whenever money comes in, but if I find that I can no longer find Series 7s on the Apple refurb website due to high demand, I'll just have to get the Series 8.

Fitbit - Replacement on the Way; Fitbit Support is Iffy

I've been without a functional Fitbit Sense since mid-July.  It is currently the end of September.  I'm only now getting a replacement.

I paid a good deal of money for this smart watch.  No, it's not an Apple Watch or Garmin product, but damn...since when is $200+ not a decent chunk of change?  I think most folks have lost their money sense nowadays.

If I'm paying that much for a product, I expect it to last more than 8 months.  I didn't get through 365 days before the watch stopped functioning.

The replacement watch will be at my door next week (Oct 5).  That's very close to 3 months wait time.  Granted, I didn't immediately escalate the issue to Fitbit, as I kept troubleshooting the issue, because I kept seeing Fitbit support posts making recommendations and I kept trying different solutions (none of them worked).

Fitbit support was extremely slow in all parts of the return process, almost as if they were reluctant to address the issue and were intentionally slowing the pace of things.  Even after they had received my watch (they wanted me to return it to them, and I did), they held onto it for close to two weeks before notifying me that they've initiated the replacement process.  I don't understand why it would take that long to assess a replacement for a watch that is locked to the bootup screen.  What part of this process would warrant two weeks of process time?  Yeah, we're still experiencing the negative affects of COVID-19 - I get that, but damn...

I'm very tempted to sell the replacement watch.  I no longer want it...what's to prevent the replacement from exhibiting the same issue?  I'm dreading trying to sell this thing, though - it's going to be a pain in the ass and I'll end up losing money in the process, since the Sense 2 was recently released.

I'm soooo tired of buying smart watches that aren't dependable.  I'll probably keep the Sense but only buy top-end smart watches from now on.  I know for a fact that Apple wouldn't have taken almost 3 months to replace a broken Apple Watch.  Even Samsung has better support than that (but that's not saying I'll buy another Samsung watch, either).

PC Gaming - GHPC, Steel Beasts Pro PE, and VTOL VR

 This past summer, I've been trying different types of PC games.  Yes, I bought Battlefield 2042, but I've done Battlefield games since the original (BF 1942)...it gets old.  

Prior to this year, I was playing War Thunder, mainly Air - arcade battles mode, Air - realistic battles mode, and some dabbling with air- simulation battles mode, which requires a stick, a throttle, and head-tracking.  Sim battles is also VR-compatible and I've also done that - it's fun!

I quit playing War Thunder last fall.  In trying to fill the void, I started playing IL-2 Stumovik: Battle of Stalingrad and it's different maps/campaigns, and also bought some premium planes.  That game is also VR-capable, but is more difficult to configure for VR, but it flies extremely well with TrackIR too.

This summer, I saw a game being advertised called Gunner, Heat, PC!  It is a moderate level tank simulator.  It's not quite easy and not quite difficult.  It plays better than War Thunder's ground battles model.  I liked it so much that I decided to become one of their Patreon members, helping to report bugs and donating funds to help the game grow.  In being a Patreon member, I was able to play their Patreon version of the game (which was available before the game made it to Steam).  September 2022 was the Early Access release date, so you can get that game on Steam now.  It's in an alpha state, so there are bugs but the devs have created a roadmap for the game, so it'll be growing over time.  It's a great game - I highly recommend it.

Lastly, I've been playing a hardcore tank sim called Steel Beasts.  I've actually been playing versions of this game for a very long time, close to 20 years.  I bought it around the year 2000 when it was being sold on a CD.  I still have that disk, too.  The game has evolved over time to be quite hefty.  The consumer version of the game is called Steel Beasts Pro Personal Edition (PE).  It's an expensive game now (it was also expensive 20 years ago, too).  The game is $115 if you're purchasing the unlimited license.  You can buy limited licenses (1 month, 4 months, and 12 months, at $9.50, $29.50, and $49.50, respectively).  With unlimited licenses, they send you a USB dongle that houses the license, which is required to use to play the game.  As well, every three years, there are major version changes, which requires licensing updates, which costs $40.

Steel Beasts is over-the-top sophisticated.  Up until recently, it had this very convoluted install process that was straight-up painful.  With the latest version, released a few months ago, the install process is a lot more simple.  As well, the difference between v4.1 (which I'd been playing a lot the past 2 years) and v4.3 (the latest version) is drastic!  The game appears to be better optimized (plays smoother and loads faster) but the graphics are actually stunning.  There's now heat blur and haze.

I've also recently been playing with the mission editor as an attempt to learn things about the game that I've not yet tried.  Creating/editing missions is tedious but the reward if you create a good mission is astoundingly satisfying!  I'm just dabbling in mission editing and created a mission where I've a US tank battalion pitted against a dug-in Soviet tank company, where the US tank battalion is forced to funnel it's forces into a kill zone.  The enemy is out of reach when the US unit comes out of a valley and there's no cover (it's a desert map), so you've to plan a way to get within range of the Soviet tanks without losing all your tanks.  Not only are the  Soviet tanks dug in, they're hiding behind small hills.  It's a works in progress but it was fun building the mission and was also fun playing it. 

I'm having so much fun with Steel Beasts that it will probably quickly replace War Thunder as my favorite game.  Note:  Steel Beasts is more of a training aid than a sim.  There's a lot to the game and you'll not be able to play it without studying up and running through it's training guides.  It's not something you're going to be able to play in 30 minutes, unless you can find user-created missions that are strictly designed for short duration gameplay.  The manual is close to 250 pages, so if you're interested, be prepared to study.

I also play VTOL VR, a VR PC flight sim that is flown using the VR controls!  The graphics fidelity is a turn-off for some folks but the game is highly immersive, mainly because the cockpit can by manually manipulated (ie, cockpit buttons can be actuated virtually, using your VR controls).  The game is also extremely popular.  There are three planes you can choose to fly, as well as a helicopter. 

I don't have a lot of footage of VTOL VR because it taxes my system badly.  With VR PC games, the PC renders the game footage, and also pipes it to the VR display.  The gameplay isn't bad in itself but playing the game and also recording it puts huge stress on the system.  I'm currently researching ways I can offload recording to another system (USB recording hardware).  Initially I flew this game while the VR headset was tethered to my gaming laptop.  I later determined how to play the game without a USB cable (I use Virtual Desktop, which enables me to play it while wirelessly connected to the gaming PC).  Flight footage of this game can be found on my Twitch channel.

My VR headset is an Oculus Quest 2 w 64 GB of storage.

My Twitch channel that I stream to -  unixfool - Twitch

I also have a YouTube page that has some recorded War Thunder gameplay:

War Thunder RB - Full Matches - YouTube

War Thunder - My ace matches - YouTube

iMovie & Mac Mini M1

I've a YouTube channel. Who doesn't, right?

Well, I did something I haven't done in awhile.  I recorded footage using my Logitech C922 Pro Stream, but using Photo Booth on my Mac Mini M1.

I've used Photo Booth in the past to capture footage but it was on my iMac 27" Core 2 Duo system...was decently fast in the day but always generated a bit of lag when recording footage that was long in duration - lag meaning that an audio delay developed.  The audio wasn't matching what was occurring on video.

I also used iMovie for the first time on the Mini M1.  It was super quick in rendering footage as I edited.  I did nothing complicated, though, but there's quite a bit of YT videos showing how well the M1 SoC works when manipulating video, so that's no secret and I won't get into the technicals.  The video footage was recorded as 1620 x 1080 and was 1.65 GB (18 min in duration).  iMovie encodes to YouTube as 1920 x 1080, so it crunched down the resulting YT video a tad.  I cut maybe 10 min of footage off the backend, added a title page, added a transition between that page and the video's beginning, and also added a fade to black at the end of the footage.

The iMovie process was super easy, but no different than that I remember - again, though, what made it a great experience was that there was zero lag when editing or rendering the video.

I will try to work more with iMovie.  I wouldn't mind buying something with more options/frills, but I need to be able to justify buying nice video editing software from Apple, since that software isn't cheap.

Apple Certified Refurbished Products Site

For those of you that want certified refurbished Mac hardware, the following is Apple's site for refurb items:  Certified Refurbished Products - Apple

I've been thinking of replacing my iMac with a Mac Studio (which would require me to find another display).  If I do, it will be from the Apple refurb site.

Back to Wearing My Samsung Watch (SM-R800)

I've a Samsung Galaxy Watch that my wife gave me for Christmas a few years ago.  It wasn't a new product when she got it for me (I believe the next version was released less than a year later).

This watch sits between their S3 and Watch 4 - they botched the naming convention for this watch and just named it Galaxy Watch, which is confusing as hell!

It replaced my Galaxy Gear S watch, which was a cellular networked watch.  That watch was functional but dated when I got it, as well.  I loved taking calls from that watch, though!

This particular watch is the 46mm BT version of the Galaxy Watch.  It works well enough but stopped being fully supported maybe a year ago (it runs on the Tizen OS, which has been depreciated).  Well, let me rephrase:  the watch is still supported; it gets occasional updates, but nothing like the current Samsung Watch products (because Tizen OS isn't supported anymore - it will eventually die).  The last update I got was 8/18/2022, a small update that enhances GPS stability.  The update prior to that was 11/2021 and was probably the very last large update.

I'd replaced this watch with a FitBit Sense, which is equivalent to an Apple Watch Series 7, but the Sense stopped working maybe a month ago (it won't charge).  I'm in the process of RMAing the device.  They'll send me another one once I send mine back to them.  

I bought the Sense using employee stipend funds (bought it during the thick of Covid - the employer gave us funds to use to stay healthy at home).  I should've just bought a damned Apple Watch instead, because Fitbits aren't really dependable/durable.  There's a chance I'll eventually have issues with the replacement.

To be honest, I may just sell the replacement and use the funds to buy an Apple Watch.

So, for now, I reverted back to my Samsung Watch and am liking it.  I love it's heft and it's UI is easy to navigate.  It's also GPS-capable, so it should be able to track my runs and other physical activities (using tethered software, I assume).  It's doing a lot of what the Sense does.  The only thing the Sense does that this Samsung Watch doesn't is sleep tracking and heart monitoring.  

Continuing to use the Samsung Watch even once I get the Sense replacement, wouldn't be the worse idea, I guess.

We'll see.

The Apple Watch Series 7 is still on my radar, too.

Comply Premium Earphone Tips & Spigen Ultra Hybrid MagFit Case

I posted about buying Airpod Pros earlier in the year.

One thing I absolutely hate about them (and all AirPods) is the fact that they won't stay in my ear.  I shouldn't have to spend this amount of money for ear buds that won't stay put.

Now, I'll say right now that my ear canals are hairy.  I'm not a hairy guy by any means.  It took me YEARS to grow a fully fleshed-out mustache and I can't grow a full beard (I have no problem growning a goatee).  My legs aren't extremely hairy, nor are my arms or chest (or armpits).  My ear has a good amount of hair growing from the ear canals, though.

At first, I tried clipping my ear hairs, and it works, but it's a bit tedious and I don't like the barbed feeling of the ends poking into me when I insert the Airpods.

I was close to selling them and getting a pair of Beats instead, as I heard they're much better at staying in place.

I was reading the MacRumors forums this week and saw that someone mentioned that they used a product called Comply premium earphone tips.  I ordered a set two days ago.

They arrived today and while sitting on my patio drinking a beer, I tried them.

OMFG.  They work. They work very well.

I'm using the medium set (these came in a set of three, sized small, medium, and large).

I also bought a magnetic ear buds tether, as well, but I think I was overly redundant.  Honestly, I wouldn't have known these would work, because I've tried at least 5 other sets of ear bud tips - only the sixth set worked.

It's time to wear out these AirPods!

Note:  I also bought a Spigen Ultra Hybrid Mag (MagFit) clear case.  I want to get a MagSafe battery, but at $99, maybe I'll put it on my Christmas list.  

Some Mac-specific Questions

 I've some Mac-specific questions.

1. I added keywords to many of my pictures and videos in the Photos app.  I've created smart folders on my MBA.  The photos and videos are stored in iCloud for sharing with other Mac hosts.  When I view those photos on my Mac Mini, I can see the keywords but the smart folder criteria was never copied/synched to iCloud.  I'd rather not create another set of smart folders on the Mini.  The question is:  is there a way to copy/export smart folders from one system for import into another system?  This might also be a good iCloud feature request for photos.

2. Can smart folders be shared across a network?

I'll attempt to answer these questions myself via research and trial/error, but I wanted track the research here.

UPDATE:

I ended up enabling iCloud photo sharing on my Mini, which copied all my photos and videos to the Mini.  I just noticed that all of my created smart folders were copied over to the Mini, too!   There's no need to delve into question 2.

UPDATE 2:

Sometime in December 2022, I disabled iCloud photo sharing on both the Mini and my MBA, as the pictures had consumed my 200 GB of iCloud space.  They are backed up, which is good, but I can't currently view the photos as active photos.  This is a major reason why potential Apple device owners should carefully evaluate drive space options when considering the purchase of Apple appliances.

Browser Extension - Workona Tab Manager

Since I've been using the Mac Mini and Macbook Air, I've migrated my browser usage to Microsoft Edge.

Why?  I like the way Edge manages tabs.  I can have many tabs but the tabs that aren't being actively used are disabled until you begin to use them (they're on standby, using minimal memory).

I decided that I wanted to use the same browser and tab manager browser extension combination on my gaming machine, which runs MS Windows 10 Pro.

The results were disappointing.  While the browser extension works, it also apparently kills YouTube audio.  No matter what "fixes" I applied, the only solution that allows YouTube audio is removing the Workona Tab Manager browser extension.  When I removed it, I regained audio.  When I reinstalled it, I lost audio.

I left the following review for the Workona folks:

So, I can either continue to use Workona's Tab Manager on the Macs and find another for the Windows box, or I can find a good one for all three.  I haven't decided what to do yet.

UPDATE:

I decided to stop using Workona's products.  I've been using Tab Session Manager the past 3 months.  It's simple enough to use and doesn't have any bad side affects.

UPDATE 2 (12/10/2023):

I noticed maybe 3-4 months ago that Microsoft Edge has something that is very similar to Workona, called Workpsaces.  I'm able to use the workspaces based on the types of projects I'm working and can swap from one to another at my whim.  I'm using this in conjuction with Tab Session Manager.

Photos and Duplicates - Grrrr!! But Hours Later, Success!

 I've been playing with Photos and smart albums.  I like smart albums a lot, but I'm running into an issue where I'm seeing LOTs of duplicates within the Photos app.

As mentioned in the prior post, I've made a backup (and I've removed the duplicates).  I think I'm going to delete everything that's in my Photos app and then import all of the photos that is in my backup archive.  I'd have to start over with my attempt at organizing using smart folders, but that's OK.

You'd think that Photos would have a built-in duplicates management system.  Supposedly, iOS does, but I didn't see the feature in my Photos app on my iPhone 13 Pro Max (using v15.6).

I haven't taken any pictures or videos in maybe a week, but I'll be sure to check and backup any recent videos and photos before I commence with this project.

UPDATE:

From my Notes - 

8/13/2022

I started playing with smart albums in Photos on my MBA.

I ran into the issue of many pictures having 3+ duplicates.

I want to start fresh (I’ve a backup of my photos, and the backup has zero duplicates).

I deleted the photos that are in the Photos app on the MBA, then went to disable Photo in iCloud.

Since iCloud will wait for 30 days to delete the photos, I logged into iCloud from a web browser, and am currently deleted them all manually.  iCloud won’t let me delete more than 1,000 pictures at a time, and waiting for the deletion to complete takes a few minutes.

UPDATE - deletion is done.

I had to wait until iCloud registered that there were no more photos/videos being stored (I waited for the iPhone to show no files in Photos as well).

Importing the photos from my backup drive was trivial.  I went from 2500+ files to 1,586!

I re-enabled Photos in iCloud (in the Settings configuration panel on the MBA).  I’m currently awaiting for the iCloud backup/sync process to kick in now.

I deleted all the tags I was using, since there were duplicate tags too (some were all lower case and some had the first letter capitalized - gahhh!!)

I kept my smart folders, though…there was nothing wrong with those and I can edit the filters easily.

This refresh worked better than I’d thought!

One thing I need to ensure of is that I positively need to backup my backup (I’ve a beefy NAS).  It’s already holding my iTunes music (which I also cleaned up - it had a ton of duplicates too, and wasn’t well organized).

It’s late right now (3:30 AM).  I’m waiting for tomorrow to finish up this project and for iCloud to backup the photos I’ve just restored.

————

It’s now 4 PM.

I checked at 12 PM and iCloud had just finished backing up all the videos and photos.  That took quite a while and the dataset wasn’t all that large, either (27 GB).

I spent the last 2 hours creating keywords and assigning them to the photos and videos.  Since I’d kept the old Smart Folders, I just had to adjust them to use the new keywords I’d created.

This is REALLY nice.  As well, the keywords that are assigned to the photos appear to be synced with my iPhone, as I can now search the photos on my phone using the keywords that I created and and assigned.  I’m wondering If I should do another backup now, to solidify those keywords - I do NOT want to have to create and assign keywords again.

MacOS and Smart Folders

Below are my notes from learning a bit about smart folders in MacOS.

Copied from a Notes entry:

8/3/2022 - Smart Folders

I want to better organize my photos and videos (that are stored in Photos and currently shared to iCloud).

I also wanted to try using Smart Folders.

I’ve also never backed up my photos, so I got the idea that I could save my photos as a backup, while also sorting them (Photos contains both videos and photos), and also removing duplicate photos.

• I copied all of the photos and videos to my Extreme Pro SSD
• I copied all the files to PNG format.
• Several of these files are actually videos (.mov), which I coped as well.
• I then created two smart folders
• A smart folder for images (PNG)
• A smart folder for movies (MOV)

One thing I had a problem with is determining how to get the smart folders to only search a certain drive.  By default, when created smart folders, the criteria is set to search the native SSD.  I couldn’t find a way to change this to search against the Extreme Pro.

I decided to cheat by assigning all the files on the Extreme Pro SSD the following tag:  Extreme Pro.  If they were photos, I added the “photos” tag and if they were movies, I added the “movie”, “quicktime”, and “video” tags. 

I noticed that there are many duplicates of photos (they’re appended with (1), (2)…).  I need to study up on how to use smart folders to eliminate the duplicates (if possible).

https://osxdaily.com/2020/09/17/how-find-duplicate-files-mac/ can help with this.

Once I get the duplicates removed, I’ll need to go through them and get rid of any needless photos/videos.  The plan is to archive them all, as well as not have them taking up iCloud space and hard drive space on both the Mini and MBA. 

I also couldn’t find a way to refine an existing smart folder’s name, so I created a new one and gave it the name I needed, then saved it.  I then had the problem of having the original smart folder and couldn’t find out how to delete it.  The following URL helped to delete that folder:  https://www.wikihow.com/Remove-an-Item-from-the-Finder-Sidebar-on-a-Mac.

8/4/2022 - Smart Folders 2

After watching a few videos on Youtube about how to create searches and saving the searches as smart folders, I did the following:

1. Opened new Finder window
2. Used Cmd+F (to find files)
3. Chose the following as “Search:” - Extreme Pro
4. Searched for File extension =  PNG
5. Saved as “Photos - Extreme Pro”
6. The above resulted in saving the search as a smart folder.

Now Working! - AMD Software: Adrenalin Edition

 October of last year (2021), I posted about issues with AMD's video card and gaming software management console.

I tried various tutorials to get it to work and went as far as uninstalling all video drivers from the system using several different driver removal software packages.  None of it worked.

I've been manually checking for driver updates since I couldn't get the console software to work on my system.  I'd check maybe every two months.  I refused to follow most recommendations of reinstalling the OS just to get this to work and I cursed AMD every time I had to do this manually.  It's not difficult to do, but this is 2022...I shouldn't have to be doing this manually.  I'd also check to see if I could get that console software to run after every update...it never worked (it wouldn't give an error but would flatout not work).

So, today, I checked and saw that there was a recent driver.  I downloaded it manually and installed it.  I checked to see if the console software would work - and it did!  I didn't change a thing with this system, so it wasn't something that I'd forgotten or didn't know how to do.

This tells me that it's a driver-, console- or installer-related issue.

I have noticed that my Nvidia GTX 1060 6 GB video card was still stronger than this AMD RX 6600 and between that and this console issue, was very close to getting rid of the RX 6600 and going back to the 1060 (it's in my storage closet).

Now I get to look at the console and see how well it compares to Nvidia's.

Newly-Installed Software on MBA M1

After watching a few videos on recommendations of free Mac software, I decided to download and install the following:

• Seashore - image/photo editor
• COT, or CotEditor - text editor that has sone coding capability (more advanced than TextEdit)
• CloudClip Manager - clipboard managing app
• AlDente Free - battery management app

I also saw the recommendation to install/use VLC, which was the very first software I installed on the MBA.

I will also be installing Audacity, as soon as they compile the software for Apple silicon, although I also have the option to use the Intel version, which would be translated by Rosetta.  Also, of all the software I installed, Audacity was the only one that I couldn't find at the App Store.  I got it at Mac | Audacity ® (audacityteam.org).

I may also install LibreOffice, which I use on my gaming PC (not sure how large the install for Macs).  For now, I'll rely upon Google's office suite of tools.

Of the bulleted software above, I'm running AlDente Free in the background and have the charge limit set to 80%.  When I installed it, my battery was at 100%, so I discharged it with AlDente to 80%.  I'll evaluate this software for maybe 6 months and if I like the results, I'll purchase the Pro version of AlDente.  And, up above, I lied. I said that Audacity was the only software I got from outside of the App Store, but AlDente was another I had to directly download from the author's GitHub.

Amazon Prime Sale - Sandisk 2TB Extreme Pro V2

This week I got a notice from Western Digital that they were having a two-day sale on Sandisk Extreme Pro v2 portable SSDs.  I almost bought it but checked Amazon and saw it on sale there as well.  

I ended up buying the 2TB version from Amazon, since I still had $70 to use from a birthday gift card.  With the gift card and the 50% off (from the list price), I paid $198 for a 2TB Pro V2 Sandisk portable SSD.

Now, I realize that both my Mac Mini (M1) and MBA (M1) will bottle-neck this SSD drive since their USB bandwidth is 10 Gb/s (USB 3.1 Gen 2), but at some point, I may get a new system that has the latest USB (3.2 Gen 2x2).  Think of it as future-proofing.

It would be nice for Sandisk to build these based on the Thunderbolt (v3) specs, though, especially since Apple has been using this spec for quite a while.

Macbook Pro 13" M2 & Potential NAND Issue

 I'm noticing some videos of the recently released Macbook Pro 13" M2 throttling SSD reads and writes.

I've also seen some posts on MacRumors.com describing the issue.

It appears that Apple may have only included one NAND for the 256 GB version of the MBP 13" M2, while the M1 variant of the same notebook has two NANDs.  Apple apparently was cutting costs with the M2 MBP13, to the point that the M1 MBP13 certainly outperforms it as far as SSD reads/writes are concerned.

This might not only affect MBP 13" M2s, but also MBA M2s.  We'll soon see if the community discovers that the MBA M2 is also affected by this issue.

See this MacRumors post for more information.

Other posts:

https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/m2-fanless-heat-issue.2349274/

Purchased Applecare+ for the Macbook Air

 After seeing a month+ of many folks sharing that they've damaged their Macbooks' screens (either by dropping or neglecting to remember that the notebook is fragile), I decided to purchase Applecare+.

The thing about insurance is that you might not need to use it.  I wanted to have it in case I ever need it.

I think I use my Mac Mini more than I do my MBA, but every time I handle the Macbook, there's this nagging feeling that I'm going to drop it.  Maybe it's that slick feeling case.  Or maybe it's the fact that it feels ultra-light and thin..  The top case is very thin, in fact, to the point that it doesn't take much to damage the screen (evidenced by the high amount of posters at the MacRumors forums and sub-Reddits, sharing the damage they caused).

One thing that I noticed is that when purchasing Applecare+, the owner is given the option of subscribing annually ($99/year) or paying a lump sum of $199 for three years of coverage.  I'm not sure which would've been best for me, but opted for the 3-year plan since I'll have the MBA a while (longer than 3 years, more than likely).  

It just makes sense, to me, to buy the coverage (mainly for the accidental) and not worry so much about display damage.  Note that I'm only interested in entertaining my use case...I've no need to explore any scenarios outside of my own usage patterns.

And, no, I didn't purchase Applecare+ for my Mac Mini M1.  It's not mobile and I have less worry of dropping it than my MBA.

Macbook Air M1 - Passive Cooling and Waterproofing Discussion

I saw a forum post where someone was wanting a waterproof Macbook Air.

I'm not sure why someone would want this.  The poster stated that it was for the sake of innovation, like adding needless features alone is considered to be innovative.

I explained that I've never spilled any liquids on any of the notebooks I've owned.  Sure, I'm speaking for myself, but self-restraint would prevent folks from accidentally spilling liquid on their notebooks.  I'd explained how I made sure I wasn't drinking over or even near my notebooks...that simple rule stopped me from ever having to worry about liquid damage repairs.  What of notebooks (in bags or backpacks) getting wet if caught in the rain?  Always check the weather before you leave an establishment, or don't take your notebook with you when/if you know it's raining.  If you need to go and you know it's going to rain, bring an umbrella or put your notebook inside a ziplock or plastic bag...it doesn't have to be airtight unless you're going underwater with it.

Some then made a quip of it being super simple to implement since the MBA was already sealed.

Wait.  What?

He thought that since the MBA had no fan, that the case was sealed (ie, no air gaps)

I told him that there is no way that the case is 100% sealed, even while the system is fanless.  I couldn't back this up, as there are no pictures or articles stating that there are no ports/ducts in the case, but I followed my gut.

I looked under my MBA M1 2020 and saw that there's a long rectangular cut underneath the display (when the display is lifted up).  At first I thought that this was where the ports were - I thought it was one elongated port, but I was wrong.  I felt along the port when opening and closing the lid, but couldn't find anything that suggested a true duct.

I powered down the notebook (not hibernated/sleeping).  I then closed the notebook and flipped it upside down.  I took a straightened plastic-covered paper clip and poked along the elongated duct.  I found that there are indeed two ducts within that elongated cut.  I thought they were hinges because they're covered by soft rubber pieces, but they flex away when prodded.

I also found this article: How The MacBook Air Cools Itself 2022 - The Mini Blog

That article clarifies some things.  

While it doesn't mention the two ducts, it does depict them.  The article explains that there are passive cooling mechanics designed into the system.  One passive cooler is the aluminum bottom plate.  It dissipates heat.  The system also has copper heat pipes, which are depicted within the article.  The article also explains that the CPU portion of the SoC (System on Chip) has what's called a cold plate over it, which helps dissipate heat.  

The below picture is an edit of what was depicted in the article.  The red circles indicate where the two cooling ducts are.  The copper heat pipes are circled in yellow.

What does this have to do with waterproofing a MBA?  Everything.  The MBA does not have fans and heat sinks on the hot bits to mitigate heat, as does the Macbook Pro and other non-Mac notebooks.  the MBA relies upon passive cooling.  A sealed case will cause issues with a system that uses passive cooling as the aluminum bottom alone won't wick the heat way.  What heat that is not dissipated by the aluminum bottom will not be able to leave the system, which is why the current MBA has the heat pipes and "exhaust" ports (the heat pipes absorb the heat and the pipes are pointed toward the ducts as another dissipation method).

The MBA as it currently stands, is nowhere near being waterproof-capable, as you'd have to redesign the whole passive cooling system to account for the fact that the system needs to be air-tight to prevent liquid damage.

I explained to the forum poster that the ports are in place and that I've verified that they are ducts (showed him the pictures in the article and explained to him that I checked the ducts and they are indeed ducts).  He hasn't said a word in reply.

Now, with all that being said, his question was in regards to the new MBA (2022 M2).  Since the new MBA isn't yet released to the public, all I had to rely upon is the outgoing MBA (2020 M1).  

Note that I saw the bottom of the new 2022 M2 (internet picture) and saw that it has the same telltale elongated cutout on the bottom of the case, so I'm betting that the new MBA has the same exact ducting, since that system also uses passive cooling.

Macbook Air M1 & Multiple External Displays

 I saw several folks on Reddit complaining that the new M2 Macbook Air only supports one external monitor.  Technical specifications state that one 6K display is supported but I saw several posts over the past 30 days stating folks have been using multiple external displays with the M1 Mac Minis, which uses the exact same SoC as the M1 Macbook Air.

I decided to check with my Mac Mini M1to see what it would handle and if it could see more than one external monitor.

My Mac Mini is currently connected to an iMac 27" Late 2009 using a Thunderbolt-to-miniDisplayPort cable.  I switch between it and the iMac using Target Display Mode, which I posted about a few weeks ago.  My gaming PC uses a Samsung 34" UltraWQHD screen.  I disconnected it from my gaming PC and connected the display to the Mac Mini using and HDMI-to-HDMI cable, connecting it to the Mini's HDMI port.  The result is that the Mini is able to use both screens without issue, with both rendering in  1440p.

I then attempted to use the same two displays with my MBA M1.  Since the MBA M1 only has the two TB ports on the left side of the system, I had to use my Anker hub, which has an HDMI port.  I found that the MBA M1 can only use one of the two 1440p displays at a time, not both at the same time.  I did not alter the resolution.  NOTE - since the MBA only allows the usage of one external display, using a hub isn't necessary; you can use the aforementioned Thunderbolt-to-miniDisplayPort cable, which will give you the option of 1440p with the 27" iMac.

I think that two 4k monitors is a too much for the bandwidth of the MBA M1 and I've seen articles mentioning that two 4K displays was too much.  I need to test to determine if it'll detect both displays if one is not 4K or if I have to lower the resolution on both for them to be detected.

There are solutions that will allow the usage of multiple displays with the MBA M1, but you've to install DisplayLink.  I haven't tried that yet.

To be honest, the 34" as an external (or second) display is extremely large...it's like having two screens when in 1440p.  That's actually quite enough space for me, but I'll make it a project of trying to get the two 1440p displays to work with the MBA M1.

Upcoming M2-powered Macbook Air & "Refreshed" M2-powered 13" Macbook Pro

 So, I saw the specs of the new and upcoming M2 Macbook Air.

The technical specifications for the M2 Macbook Air are here.

The technical specifications for the M2 Macbook 13" Pro are here.

Immediately noticeable is the fact that the M2 MBP is using the same chassis as the previous M1 Air, while also using the M2 chipset.  They almost certainly just shoehorned the M2 into the existing M1 Air chassis, as the case layout and specs are extremely similar.

Basically, the M2 MBA gets a proper refresh while the M2 MBP does not.

The major differences are:

The MBA has a 13.6" display while the MBP's display is 13.3".  Both systems' displays are LED-backlit with IPS technology.  Both had the same nit capacity.

The M2 MBA base machine will have the 8-core CPU with 4 performance and 4 efficiency cores, and 8-core GPU.  The M2 MBP base will have the 8-core CPU with 4/4 performance/efficiency cores and a 10-core GPU.

The M2 MBA option would be the 8-core 4/4 core with 10-core GPU.  There's no other option for the M2 MBP.

So, the base M2 MBP starts with the better hardware, and the M2 MBA can be optioned to use the base MBP chipset.

Battery comparison:  The MBA battery is rated for 18 hours of Apple TV playback, 15 hours of wireless web, has a 52.6-watt-hour LiPo battery and includes a 30W power adapter.  The MBP battery is rated for 20 hours of Apple TV music playback, 17 hours of wireless web viewing, and has a 58.2-watt-hour LiPo battery.

Both have the exact same RAM capacity and offerings.

Both have the exact same SSD capacity and offerings.

That doesn't seem all that bad, but as you further compare, you'll see that the M2 MBA now has a 1080P front-facing camera while the M2 MPB has the same 720P camera as the outgoing M1 MBA and M1 13" MBP.

The MBA now has a Mag-Safe charging port with two Thunderbolt 3 ports.  The MBP has the same layout as the exiting M1 MBP 13" - two Thunderbolt 3 ports.  Note that the MBP will lose a TB port when using a charger, since it doesn't have a dedicated charing port.  The TB and USB bandwidth capabilities are the same for both systems.

The MBA uses a non-Touch Bar keyboard.  The MBP uses the Touch Bar keyboard, otherwise both keyboards are the same, as well as the touch pads.

The MBA uses a new four-speaker sound system. Both use the same three-mic array and 3.5mm headphone jack.

Both the MBA and MBP M2s officially support only one external 6K display.  I'm not sure what's unofficially supported.  I've heard that the M1 MBAs and MBPs can support two 4K displays.

Price-wise, the M2-powered MBA base model will now cost $1199, while the upgraded M2 MBA will cost $1499.  The M2 MBP base machine will cost $1299, while the upgraded model will cost $1499.

All of the above hints that the M2 MBP may be performing a swan song and may be exiting the market.  While it's not really overshadowed by the M2 MBA, (they share the same chip and the chips are exactly the same), they do not share the same shell.  The comparison is not really fair since the M2 MBA got a real refresh and the M2 MBP did not - the M2 MBP got a new chipset but is using the same chassis as the outgoing M1 MBP 13".

It's almost as if Apple had a surplus of M2 SoCs that they wanted to utilize for the sake of usage...they had spare M2s and spare 13" MBP chassis and used both surpluses to make "new" systems.

It's odd behavior, to be sure.

We'll see if I'm correct in my assessment.

Compared to the outgoing M1 MBA, the incoming M2 MBA is apparently 20% more powerful/efficient.

Are Macbooks Durable?

 Some guy on one of the Mac subreddit groups wanted to secure his Macbook in his car with a tether to deter theft.

I left a comment saying that his main concern should be the heat inside a car.

The storage spec for current Macbooks:

Storage temperature: −13° to 113° F (−25° to 45° C)

The next argument was that a trunk would suffice.  I argued against that, as a truck would be just as hot (it is not a sealed compartment and the heat from the cabin would, in almost all cars with trunks, radiate into the trunk.  The next argument was that the trunk didn't have windows.  A car can get hot even if the windows were covered, as the car is basically a metal enclosure sitting under direct sunlight.  The storage spec for the current MBAs is 113 F.  That temp can easily be attained in a car's trunk.

The next argument was that MBAs are durable.  

THEY ARE MOST CERTAINLY NOT.  A simple Reddit search shows the following - reddit.com: search results - macbook cracked screen - and most of those hits are very recent.  Many of the posts include pictures of the damage too, so yeah, that statement was quickly debunked.

Folks, don't believe everything you see on the internet.

Macbook Air M1 - Anker 7-Port Dock/Hub On The Way

I ordered an Anker 7-port dock/hub from Amazon today, as I've several external hard drives that I plan to use with my Macbook Air M1.  

This dock will allow me to connect drives to the MBA using USB-A connections.

I've also been closely monitoring how my MBA uses memory, just to understand how it performs.  I've yet to see the memory pressure rise to the point where the graph is yellow, but it does use swap (very little, actually - maybe 100 MB, infrequently).  I'm close to not worrying about it any longer.  I'm pretty sure the system will let me know (by throttling down components) if memory usage gets bad.  Life is too short to be constantly worrying on if your Mac MI is swapping...if it is, so be it - I highly doubt swapping is going to cut my drive's life in half.

New M1 user? Get the correct version of Chrome!

 Just so you know:

If you just got a new M1 Mac, make sure you’re using the right version of Google Chrome.

If you're wondering if you've the correct one, you can check the following:

• Open Chrome browser after it has installed, Go to the three vertical dots and click them.
• Select Help.
• Select About Chrome.  
• You should see "arm64", which is the M1 version.  See below recording.

Ubuntu Desktop 22.04 and Dell XPS 8930

2-3 years ago, I bought my daughter a Dell XPS 8930.  It was nothing special but was a good base in case she needed to expand the system a bit.

Not long after purchase, the motherboard went bad.  I had on-site support for it but never got around to getting it repaired until maybe a month before support expired.  A contractor showed up and replaced the mainboard. 

My daughter only used it a few months then decided to build her own.  The XPS was sitting in a corner, barely used.

I've a cheap system I bought from TigerDirect that is running Ubuntu.  It is currently running Ubuntu Desktop 18.04.  I'd installed Owncloud on it, but the install got jacked up.  it's all out of sync now, package-wise.  I'd attempted to update Owncloud and it choked.  I've not been able to get it running again and it has crucial data on it (it has two drives and the Owncloud data is on the 2nd non-system drive).

I decide to run Ubuntu Desktop 22.04 on the XPS.  I'd initially installed LTS 22.04 but at this time that version has issues with systems that have Nvidia cards and I didn't want a headless system (I already have several of those), so I opted for Desktop.  The Desktop install was seamless.

Desktop 22.04 already has a cloud-based system included in the default install - Nextcloud.  I'm still playing with it but I'll more than likely use that since it's within the Ubuntu repository (Owncloud wasn't when I last checked).

Some things I don't like about these latest Ubuntu versions (noticed this will LTS as well):

• vim wasn't installed by default.  vi is installed by default.  I think this is a licensing thing (I don't believe vim is POSIX).  As well, if vi is already installed, I guess vim wouldn't need to be.  If anyone needs vim, they can use apt to install it post-install.
• ifconfig was not installed by default.  IMO, ifconfig should be essential to a default install.  You might need to troubleshoot a network issue immediately after installing the distro and if you don't have a network connection, you're screwed.  ifconfig is included in the net-tools package.  That package shouldn't be excluded from the base install.

Everything else seems to be good with this distro version, but I'm sure I'll find something amiss as I use the system.

Macbook Air M1 and RAM/Swap research

 Last night, after 3-4 days of the MBA running (mostly hibernating but I did use it maybe 10 hours or so), I took at look at the kernel_task process and it was at around 16TB of writing. (!!)

I didn't have a ton of apps open but did have 15 tabs in an open Firefox browser.  I'm thinking that was the culprit...many days of running without killing the process, when Firefox is notorious for memory leaks.

I shut it down then decided to remove the whole program since it was migrated from my old iMac.  It was almost certainly running an Intel version, which meant that it was being translated by Rosetta2 before being used by the M1's ARM chipset.  

I installed the Mac version but decided to also look into Microsoft Edge, which has some memory leak protections built-in (it hibernates inactive tabs, I believe).  I initially looked for it at the App Store but it wasn't there.  It was the same for FF for Mac - had to go to the FF page and download it, so I went to Microsoft's page, found the Mac M1 version, downloaded and installed it.

The plan is to start using Edge in place of FF so that I can take advantage of it's anti-leak properties, but still have FF on-hand in case I need it.  Yeah, I can use Safari, as well, but I've grown used to FF and Safari doesn't have the anti-leak protection.

I also ensured that the other software I migrated from the iMac (GarageBand, iMovie, Pages, Keynote, Numbers, etc) was using versions native to Apple silicon.  They are all running versions designed for the M1 chipset.

I then restarted the MBA so that the kernel_task writes could be watched after my changes.

So far, my kernel_task writes are low (437 MB) and I'm not swapping (I'm at 2 GB of unused RAM currently).

As well, I've researched the RAM and swap issue.  Even if I start swapping, even if it was heavy swapping, the life of my SSD should last well over 10 years.

I've also thought of creating extra swap files/partitions to a 2nd SSD I have, and redirecting the swapping to those locations (if possible for the latter).  I can always replace the 2nd SSD since it's not embedded into the MBA.  This may be an option later on, but I'll not worry about it now.

Had to Rearrange My Desk

 I've rearranged my desk so that I can use the Macs at one end of the (long) desk.  

This resulted in moving my 27" iMac, placing it next to my Mac Mini.  The enables me to use the iMac as a monitor for my Mini, using Target Display Mode (TDM).  I had to buy a USB-C to mini-Displayport cable and use the one of the Thunderbolt slots to connect to the iMac.

Even though I can use TDM, there's the issue of having two sets of keyboard and mice between both systems.  I don't think there's a worthwhile way around that issue.

I'm also using a bluetooth mouse and keyboard with the Mini.  The mouse is a Corsair Harpoon that has a bluetooth mode.  I'd been using that mouse with my work laptop until I found that it had BT functionality, then I repurposed it for use with my Mini.  The keyboard is a Seenda ISJ-ZXKB01.  It has mapped controls for MacOS.  It works well, but tends to take a few seconds to reconnect when it is hibernating (I've to tap a button and wait maybe a second or two for it to awaken before I can use it).

Since I took the iMac from my work setup, I am mow using my Dell 27" monitor as my second screen for work.  I'd previously been using it as a second monitor for use when I'm streaming gameplay, but since that system has a 34" UW display, I really didn't have an excuse to use an additional monitor.  It did make things a bit more simple, as I could use OBS on that screen while the main screen was outputting gameplay.  I may buy another 27" screen from Dell if I want to go back to that setup, but I'd have to rearrange the desk or get a wallmount for it (or the iMac).  We'll see.

The Macbook Air (MBA) is doing well.  I've been using it to do light things such as blog posts, research, and note-taking (using OneNote).  I'd heard folks with M1 Macs using the MS Edge browser because it's less resource-intensive than Firefox and Chrome.  I've been using Firefox as my main browser, but I've to watch it closely because it tends to consume lots of memory.  I might try Edge soon.

Macbook Air (2020) M1 Base On the Way!

 I'd been torn on whether to get a mobile Mac, especially so shortly after I'd bought the M1 Mini (a few weeks ago).

I want to spend time on the Mac but also be near family.  The Mini is in the basement, which is where my office desk is.  I'd tried remoting into the Mini from the den while logged into my Dell G7, but there's some lag that takes away from the experience.  So, I decided to buy another Mac.

I mentioned I was torn on whether to make another Mac purchase.  Well, I was doubly torn with this purchase, as I couldn't decide on the Air or the Pro.  The Pro is a bit more expensive, but the specs between the two are almost identical.  I think the Air has 7 GPU cores while the Pro has 8 (note that there's an 8 GPU core option for the M1 MBA).  Also, the Air is fan-less while the Pro has a fan.  The Air doesn't have the touch bar but the Pro does.

I decided on the Air Base model because of price.  The Air was $150 less and has the same exact specs as the Macbook Pro 13" (2020 M1).  This Air is Space Gray in color.  That's a rather trivial difference but I'm trying to cut costs.  As well, there was $60 sales tax on this purchase!  If I could've found a Pro that was open box, it would've been as cheap as a new Air, but they had no open boxed Pros.  They also didn't have any certified used ones in this area.

I'm excited.  The only thing I'm missing now is the Apple Watch.  That one can wait until next year.

UPDATE:  I picked it up from Best Buy maybe an hour ago.  It is sweet. I think I should've bought this before I bought the Mini, but that's OK because they're both low-end Mac systems and I'm not under a financial burden.  I can use both.  The Air is pulling the new update (12.4) that was released last night.  The Mini is pulling the same update.  I'll have more to report over the next week or so.

UPDATE 2:  Three weeks later, Apple notified the public of two new incoming models - the Macbook Air M2 model and the Macbook Pro M2 model (which is basically the M2 SoC within the M1 shell - shitty "refresh", in my opinion)

I Have Another iPhone; Airpod Pro Earbuds; Mac Mini M1

iPhone 13 Pro Max 256 GB 

Back in March (2022), I decided to let go of my LG smartphone.  I've been using LGs since the V20 (used the V30 and had been using the V60 (which I still have) up until March).

When LG decided to get out of the smartphone business, I began my look for a different phone.  None of the other brands held my interest.  Yes, other companies make phones that have similar specifications, but most do not have expandable memory (micro SD) or physical audio ports (or even DAC).  LG's V60 was innovative, in that you could also use dual screens (docks with screens) with them.

I did not want a Chinese phone (no OnePlus or similar).  I did not want Samsung (used their phones awhile back...was NOT impressed and had several issues with two phones where I had to return both of them and one of the replacements experienced the same issue 1.5 years after the exchange).

Several things about iPhones that will never go away: Their resale value.  They also have a very good ecosystem.  The software and security is good.  They've long support.  If I have an issue with a phone, I can visit the local Apple Store.  Their peripherals work great (even when using them with non-Apple products).

I decided on, and bought, an iPhone 13 Pro Max 256 in Alpine Green.  The phone looks great and feels great in the hand.  It has an elegant look to it.

Right off the bat, I hated the fact that logins are tied to Apple IDs and iCloud.  I also hate the fact that I can't change the UI. (With Android, we use launchers to change the look of everything.)  The phone has no fingerprint reader. (Face ID works great, though!)  It came with no ear phones, nor did it come with a power adapter, which is mandatory for usage of the Fast Charging feature.  It's all glass but comes with no phone case (WTF).  Luckily, I ordered a case when I ordered the phone.  I also ordered a 32W power adapter.

It is now May and I've used the phone a few months.  I've grown accustomed to it.  There's less of an issue with me fighting with iCloud now. (I found that a large part of my issues stemmed from the fact that I somehow have two Apple IDs.)  

I've begun using the phone to listen to music.  Most of my music collection consists of raw MP3s, but it is a royal bitch to use raw MP3s with iPhones.  I had to import the raw files into iTunes on a PC so that I could import/link/sync them to the iPhone.  Some of my music was tied to one of the two Apple IDs, and for a while I had issues where I couldn't access the content I paid for ten years ago. (Yes, I got that sorted.)

Apple Airpod Pro Earbuds

I even bought a set of Airpod Pros.  I tried a pair of my daughter's corded Airpods but they would never stay in my ears.  Even Airpods slipped out, as they are similar to the corded variant.  The Pros have rubber pieces that help keep the pods in the ear canal, and they stay put better than regular AirPods, but they're still not all that secure when in my ear.  I foresee these falling out of my ear at inopportune moments.  They've great sound, with noise cancellation and sound pass-through and text-to-voice features.  The rechargeable case is great (although slick).

Mac Mini M1 (2020) Base - Space Gray

I'd been using my 27" iMac lately to access the music and files on it when using the new iPhone, but it is OLD (late 2009 model).  So, I bought a Mac Mini M1 to replace it - that was the best decision I've made in quite a while, as this Mini is very powerful.  I bought the 8GB RAM & 256GB SSD version.  I didn't want to spend a ton of money on another Mac, so I focused on the lower end (after doing research, the lower end will be fine for non-professional things and even some professional tasks).  As well, I bought a dock that gives me several more ports (for less than $100) - it fits under the Mini and has the same profile.  The dock also had a port for an SSD card, so I mounted a 500GB SSD to it, so the system now has a 500GB data drive.  The dock is a Quiizlab USB-C Hub.

I'd been using the iMac as a dedicated monitor for work, but I think I'll use it with the Mini instead.  I'm currently using a Dell SE2719H 27" monitor with the Mini but love the 1440p screen of the iMac.

What's also cool is that I'm remotely administrating the iMac from the Min using the Screen Sharing tool.  This is somewhat new to me, as the iMac was previously the only other working Mac in the house.  Note that I've two old (2005ish) Macbooks that aren't being used, as well as a G4 PowerMac that's sitting in a corner.  The Mini may spur me to get another (modern) Mac system.  UPDATE - Yup...bought a Macbook Air M1.

I've also bought my first real app for the Mini: iStatistica Pro, a system monitoring tool.  I used to use iStat and was going to purchase it but saw that it hadn't been updated in awhile (and other issues).  iStatistica Pro was the same price ($10), and didn't seem to have any bad reviews, so I bought it.  I've already used it to pare down some files. (I copied the files from my iMac to the Mini when setting it up, so there's a bit of files on the Mini already.)

So, I'm happy.  I won't promise to document my experience with the recent Apple purchases since my life is pretty fragmented right now, but I'll document the experience when I remember I've things to share.