So, my daughter's 13th birthday was yesterday. The wife and I got her an iPhone 5S (which is what she wanted). While we were at the Verizon store, I was told that I was eligible for the Edge program (I will not explain Edge here...most Vz customers will know what Edge is). I was curious, as I'm tired of always being locked to a phone for 2 years, so I had the Vz shop explain everything to me. I believe the Edge program would benefit people who like to upgrade ahead of 2 years. So, I went home and did some thinking. I'm aware that the Note 4 will eventually be out...I always miss these releases. I almost decided to wait until my contract with my Note 2 ended (that wouldn't have been a bad idea, either). I did some research online and it was very difficult for me to decide which phone I'd like to upgrade to, because the Note 2 is THAT good...seriously.
There were two other phones that caught my eye that I could get through Verizon: The HTC One Max and the LG G2. The thing I didn't like about the Max was that it is just a big HTC One M8. It is also extremely large at 5.9" in display area...that might've been too much for me. Those cons weren't the kickers, though. The kicker was that the back camera was 4MP (really???) And a phone that big (I hate the word phablet, so I won't be using that term) needs a stylus. The LG G2 looks like it would've held my interest...it has LOTS of features and the phone appears to be more responsive than the Galaxy S4 (probably due to Samsung's Touchwiz bloat). The Note 3 is better than both of them, although I was willing to compromise (but only to an extent).
I ended up getting the Note 3. I might've been happy enough with the HTC One Max, but I would not have been happy with that camera. I came close to getting the G2, though. What lured me toward the Note 3 was the fact that I was already familiar with the Note 2, which would help me when using the Note 3. Also, the phone on the Note 3 is spectacular and has slow-motion (120fps) capture and 1080p 60fps capture as well. The charging/syncing port is different, too (using USB 3.0 now and has a funky new port that can still use a regular micro-USB cable to sync).
I got the black version and got an Otter Defender case (will have to sell the Note 2 Otter Commuter case that I have). I sorely missed the belt clip, which the Commuter case doesn't use, but I could never find a Defender case for my Note 2 in local shops. One thing I don't like about the Defender is that built-in screen protector...my stylus doesn't like it at all, so I've been using my finger when texting. I was tempted to cut out the plastic, but I'll try using it for a few weeks instead of being hasty. Another thing: I got my daughter a Lifeproof case for her phone...that damn thing was expensive, but I wanted no excuses that she got it wet or broke it. I wanted to get one for my new phone, but apparently they aren't making them for the Note 3. That's OK, though, because it doesn't have a belt clip.
For some reason, migrating my data to the new phone took forever, but I've been using the Note 2 heavily the last year, so there was much more data that had to be pushed to the new phone. As well, I was never near wifi for it to complete the syncing (was shopping after I got the new phone).
My next purchase will be a larger microSD card (64GB). I ran upon the limit of my 32GB microSD card several times the last 12 months. I might also look into another battery, because I'm using a Pebble smartwatch now and I have to keep BT on for it to work with my phone...my phone is sucking down battery power bigtime. I 'm lucky if I can get 10 hours of usage out of it. If I don't touch the phone, battery life is fine, though.
There was also an Android update waiting for me when I got my hands on the phone (v4.4.3).
Other than getting all my apps installed on the new phone, I've not played with it yet. I still need to get the Next launcher running again (will have to customize a new theme).
I'll post up any new findings I discover/experience.
Saturday, June 07, 2014
Monday, May 19, 2014
New Title & URL Assigned to this Blog
I should've done this a long time ago. I've always tried to mesh general tech in this blog but the original make-up of this site was always of an Apple/Mac orientation.
Without further ado, the new name of the blog is All Things Tech. The new URL is technology2have.blogspot.com (everything else I tried was taken already, but I suppose I could've leveraged the domain space I currently own).
The content of continue to revolve around general technology...I've no plans to change anything else about the blog.
Without further ado, the new name of the blog is All Things Tech. The new URL is technology2have.blogspot.com (everything else I tried was taken already, but I suppose I could've leveraged the domain space I currently own).
The content of continue to revolve around general technology...I've no plans to change anything else about the blog.
Monday, April 14, 2014
Pebble Smartwatch
Yes, I got a Pebble. Eventually, I'll get a Pebble Steel, too (or get a nice metal band to imitate one).
A review video is below:
What I like about it:
- It vibrates when e-mails and texts are received (I can read them, although long e-mails are truncated).
- I can shake or tap it as an added functionality (for example, when I want to see battery status on the StudioClock app that I'm using, I tap or shake the watch).
- I like the magnetized charger.
- I get get a week out of a charge! (added 10/13/2014)
- I can use it to control my phone when I'm running/exercising. (added 10/13/2014)
- I don't like the magnetized charger (because it is proprietary...I hate proprietary cables...this may as well be an Apple product).
- I hear that it isn't as scratch resistant as it should be (I'm hoping that I can find a screen-like protector for this watch). Added 10/13/2014 - I also tried to use a screen protector...that was a waste of time.
As I use the watch, I'll continue to make note of the good/bad things about the watch, as well as the apps.
EDIT: Found a steel watchband here...this one had decent but not outstanding reviews, but the search for a steel band now looks promising. There's also tons of screen protectors, too.
Monday, March 03, 2014
Post Install - Samsung 840 EVO SSD
SSD and OS reinstall notes
1. Installation of SSD hardware was easy (I followed the instructions of a YouTube video on my iPad while installing the SSD).
2. I found that I could NOT use my restore image that I created when I first received the laptop. Apparently, it will not install onto the SSD because my image is bigger than the drive itself? The image is stored on an 8GB USB drive, but throws an error every time I try to use it to install the backed up factory install onto the SSD. I used AlienRespawn to create it (but never tested it). I used the factory restore CD that came with the R3 instead (very slow process compared to installing from a USB drive).
3. I had an issue getting the SSD drive to show in the Windows drive install option section of the OS install. I installed the SSD in the Drive 1 slot, but initially it wasn’t showing at all. I went into the BIOS and switched the drive setup from RAID to AHCI, then tried again and the SSD drive showed as Drive #1.
3. I had an issue getting the SSD drive to show in the Windows drive install option section of the OS install. I installed the SSD in the Drive 1 slot, but initially it wasn’t showing at all. I went into the BIOS and switched the drive setup from RAID to AHCI, then tried again and the SSD drive showed as Drive #1.
4. Later, after the install finished, I installed the SSD management software. I followed it’s optimization instructions and saw that it stated that the drive setup should be set to RAID. When I set it back to RAID, the install would no longer boot up. I even tried letting Windows repair it, but it could not fix the issue. Granted, there’s a BIOS prompt when you attempt to switch between the two settings...it states that switching could make the system not boot back up. Next time, I won’t follow Samsung’s recommendations, at least regarding this setting. I’m reinstalling Windows 7 again as I type this.
5. I noticed that with a fresh install of Windows 7, none of the damned network devices work...at all. It looks like I might have to download them onto a USB drive from another system to get them installed onto the R3. [This was actually rather easy to fix. I just went to Dell’s site (they have a list of M17x software, listed by revision #, that listed the specific driver I needed for the ethernet hardware)...I downloaded it to a spare USB drive, transferred it to the R3, then installed it...I instantly had internet access.]
6. I’m using the following URL for instructions (other FAQs and help guides for the R3 did not work): http://forum.notebookreview.com/alienware-17-m17x/562751-m17xr3-clean-install-ssd-instructions-recommendations.html
This is the first one that worked.
7. In hindsight, I could’ve bought Window 8.1 from Microcenter for $100 (but I was trying to cut costs). I do have a license for Windows 8 (and 8.1 was/is a free upgrade if you've v8 already), but I'd have had to download Win 8 again and I didn't want to spend any more time downloading, as I spent a great bit of time downloading all the damned security updates/patches for Win 7.
Some URLs of interest with this install:
Saturday, March 01, 2014
Bought a Samsung 840 EVO For My Laptop!
So, I've always wanted to install an SSD drive in one of my gaming rigs.
Initially I wanted to install it on my main desktop gaming rig, but that system hasn't been stable in awhile and I've been almost totally reliant on my Alienware gaming laptop, so I decided to focus on using an SSD in that instead. Part of the problem is that the laptop is using 2 x 750GB Seagate drives in RAID0. No, it is not fast, but I have a crap ton of drive space. I did not want to lose any of that space, so in order for me to have an SSD, I'd have to go big. As well, the M17x R3 has issues with SSDs on drive 0 (of 0 and 1)...they had to nix the speed (so no 6GB/s with this drive in this system). I can go SSD on both drive slots if I wanted and even set them up in RAID0, but I wouldn't be able use SATA 3, only SATA 2. Dell has disabled SATA 3 in all BIOS versions over A08 for this system, also (I'm at A09...it's been like that since I bought it...I've had no reason to update to a higher version).
So, I bought 1 x 750GB Samsung 840 EVO. I will break my RAID0 setup and replace the drive in slot 1 with the SSD (and I'll have an extra 750GB drive just sitting around, I guess...I can always throw it into one of my other laptops). I'll use the SSD for my games (BF4 and Arma 3, amongst others), and use the other drive as my data/archive drive.
For now, I can live with bandwidth limitation. I can always reuse this drive if I decided to upgrade to an R4 or R5 later on.
I'll post my OS reinstall experience a bit later.
Monday, July 08, 2013
Still Active
This blog is still active. We'll, it isn't but as long as I still have Macs, I'll keep the site up and running.
I've not been using the iMac all that much. I take that back. I use do use it, but mainly for crunching video and movies that I capture from my phone, my GoPro, and my Emerson Action Cam. iMovie does some things that Movie Maker doesn't. iMovie also tends to be more intuitive. Other than that, the only action the iMac sees is in playing Minecraft (my kids).
My MacBook is barely being used (I do occasionally use it for web browsing while in bed). My Macbook is no longer supported (it is a 1g). I suppose I could swap out the battery with the wife's (my wife's is a 2g and is still supported - but her battery stopped working) and use hers. Or I can throw Linux on it.
I don't think I'm every going to buy another Apple. I love the idea and the simplicity of basic operations, but when complicated issues arise, sometimes even the basic things are no longer simple. As well, I tire of trying to ensure the computers are supported.
But, I should document how to get my music from a backup of my iPad Mini to my Samsung Galaxy Note 2. I've been trying to do that for a very long time. Like a fool, when I installed Windows 8 on my Alienware, I forgot to back up my iTunes stuff (music and such). Now, I can get most of it back via iCloud and via wireless and iTunes, but I'm having a problem getting my music reinstalled that I *didn't* purchase via iTunes. It's a PITA (similar to the issue I had back in 2008 where I dropped and broke my iPhone...got a new iPhone but had a very difficult time getting my music onto the new phone).
I've not been using the iMac all that much. I take that back. I use do use it, but mainly for crunching video and movies that I capture from my phone, my GoPro, and my Emerson Action Cam. iMovie does some things that Movie Maker doesn't. iMovie also tends to be more intuitive. Other than that, the only action the iMac sees is in playing Minecraft (my kids).
My MacBook is barely being used (I do occasionally use it for web browsing while in bed). My Macbook is no longer supported (it is a 1g). I suppose I could swap out the battery with the wife's (my wife's is a 2g and is still supported - but her battery stopped working) and use hers. Or I can throw Linux on it.
I don't think I'm every going to buy another Apple. I love the idea and the simplicity of basic operations, but when complicated issues arise, sometimes even the basic things are no longer simple. As well, I tire of trying to ensure the computers are supported.
But, I should document how to get my music from a backup of my iPad Mini to my Samsung Galaxy Note 2. I've been trying to do that for a very long time. Like a fool, when I installed Windows 8 on my Alienware, I forgot to back up my iTunes stuff (music and such). Now, I can get most of it back via iCloud and via wireless and iTunes, but I'm having a problem getting my music reinstalled that I *didn't* purchase via iTunes. It's a PITA (similar to the issue I had back in 2008 where I dropped and broke my iPhone...got a new iPhone but had a very difficult time getting my music onto the new phone).
Tuesday, April 02, 2013
Phones and Screen Protectors
So, I saw a Google+ post today regarding screen protectors (someone bought one for their Note 2).
I've used screen protection on my phone but I really think it is overkill, unless your phone spends lots of time in your pocket with your keys and spare change. As well, they are difficult to install and can sometimes interfere with the usage experience, especially if you're using a stylus (as with the Note 2).
Some people think that screen protectors, which are small pieces of plastic, keeps your screen from being shattered from face-down drops. Generally, that's not the case, although there are several screen protectors that are marketing just that (such as the Amzer ShatterProof screen protector).
Here's a good link of a group of people discussing general protectors vs. shatter-proof protectors. I homed in on this, specifically:
I've used screen protection on my phone but I really think it is overkill, unless your phone spends lots of time in your pocket with your keys and spare change. As well, they are difficult to install and can sometimes interfere with the usage experience, especially if you're using a stylus (as with the Note 2).
Some people think that screen protectors, which are small pieces of plastic, keeps your screen from being shattered from face-down drops. Generally, that's not the case, although there are several screen protectors that are marketing just that (such as the Amzer ShatterProof screen protector).
Here's a good link of a group of people discussing general protectors vs. shatter-proof protectors. I homed in on this, specifically:
a good screen protector will hold your glass in place after its shattered, but wont stop it from shattering.Now, I've used a protector twice in the past but I've never kept them on for more than a few days. As well, I've NEVER had any of my phones' or PDAs' screens being scratched, but then again:
most screen protectors do not cover the whole screen, they leave the edges exposed. when you drop your phone, its 90% likely to land on a corner first, so you'd need to reinforce the corners to minimise vibrations and the resultant damage in the case of a drop.
- I never put my phones in my pockets with keys or change (I never put phones in my pockets if pockets are empty, either).
- I always use a belt holster.
- I do not put my phones face down on any surfaces.
I've shattered screens before (with and without protectors). I don't believe in YouTube videos testing this aspect of phones, because I don't think most people on YouTube are qualified enough to proficiently test/measure this aspect of phones. I've seen quite a bit of people thinking that general screen protectors will prevent shattering in face-down drops. No. Just like with any other glass, a plastic covering will only prevent the glass from flinging everywhere. Just because you see it on the internet doesn't mean it's true.
I'm now going to show some back-and-forth arguments on this topic, from a reference (it may be better to go to the actual link, because the blogger.com keeps altering my formatting):
Originally Posted by ice456789
You are exactly right. I work in the auto industry, the film is an anti-shatter device. Just keeps the glass from spraying the driver and passenger in the event the glass breaks. The glass the auto industry uses is something else though. It is extremely hard to break. We've had to bust driver side windows out with ball-peen hammers its extremely hard to do, dont even try windshields. The object has got to be sharp for a quick puncture. Auto glass is extremely resilient. The downside is it scratches very very easy.When it comes down to it, its all just physics. Just like working with steel. Higher Rockwell Hardness means its moredurable and scratch resistant, but becomes more brittle. I dont believe there is a wonder glass the does the best of all. Just gotta pick whats right for you.
So take this for what it's worth, but I called my father who's a mechanical engineer for Ford. I asked him what material they use in windshields to prevent them from crumbling during a shatter/crack, he said "it's similar to the films you would use on your phone or tablet."
I didn't even tell him why I was asking about it, he just threw that at me.
As I said, I think you'd be surprised if there were tests done to show how much a "thin piece of plastic" helps absorbing an impact.
There's also a bit of a difference between absorbing a bullet and absorbing a fall to a hard surface from 3-5'' feet, your analogy is flawed.
The fact remains you have no proof proving that it doesn't help, while it's common knowledge that plastics are often used to absorb impact, whether they are thin or thick.
Last interesting post in that thread:
I think I just had a brain aneurysm reading the responses about screen protectors providing shatter protection to the screen. Unless you are using a screen protector that's a couple millimeters thick, you won't be getting any appreciable amount of energy dissipation within the screen protector on impact. These things are maybe 100 micrometers at best in thickness. I don't care what it's made of, its not saving your screen.
Now here's a good screen protector. It seems similar to the Amzer ShatterProof. People have to realize that these are not general screen protectors. These protectors are designed with high ballistics in mind (high in the sense of objects or phones being thrown/dropped or purposely damaged). Just because several screen savers are exceedingly capable in protecting screens doesn't mean they all have the same capability. They aren't created equally.
Last reference post on this topic:
In order for a screen protector to prevent a crack, it would have to be designed so that it would distribute the pressure across the screen. With screen protectors like IS and PhantomSkinz, etc, this is not possible. These protectors aren't designed to distribute pressure, but instead to prevent scratches to the screen. Now if he was using a hard plastic cover on his screen then that would be a different story, as the thickness of such item would aid the resonant forces outward instead of inward. If you are using a thin screen protector, it wouldn't have the capacity to handle the forces, therefore the resonant forces concentrate at the sight of impact, creating a fracture for the force to escape.
References:
http://forums.macrumors.com/showthread.php?t=964454 - iPhone-specific
Saturday, March 09, 2013
Galaxy S III bug bypasses lock screen, allowing access to personal data on Home Screen
http://bit.ly/Yd4P4C
The lock screen on your phone may not be doing a good job of keeping intruders out. A new bug has been found on the Galaxy S III that can let users bypass the lock screen and access phone data that resides on the home screen.
This issue also affects the Galaxy Note II.
The lock screen on your phone may not be doing a good job of keeping intruders out. A new bug has been found on the Galaxy S III that can let users bypass the lock screen and access phone data that resides on the home screen.
This issue also affects the Galaxy Note II.
Wednesday, March 06, 2013
Bought Samsung Galaxy Note II
I finally got the chance to replace my aging HTC Thunderbolt.
The Thunderbolt was actually fine until Verizon pushed a 4.0 firmware update (without my knowledge and without prompting me first...if I'd have known, I'd have done some research and postponed the update).
The update caused issues. ICS is designed for multi-core CPUs. The T-bolt is single-core. After the update, I noticed serious lag in response times when clicking on objects. 2-3 seconds of lag, in some cases. I decided to restore back to the factory settings and wipe the microSD card of data. Even after doing that, there was still lag (although not as much...but it was much more random). As well, the battery was draining more quickly than it used to...power consumption was already kinda bad without adding ICS. Sometimes the phone would shut down with little warning. At first, I thought it was a system crash, but began to notice that the battery was dead, even when showing at least 50% power. I don't know if the battery needed to be replaced, but I wasn't about to buy a new one when I was close to being eligible for an upgrade.
So, I was due for an upgrade. The window of the upgrade would open on 3/9. I'd been researching the last 4-5 months and had set my eye on two phones:
Samsung Galaxy SIII
Samsung Galaxy Note II
For those that don't know, both of these phones share the same hardware. The Note II is bigger, though. The SIII has a 4.8" screen and the Note II has a 5.5" screen. The SIII is sold in a 16GB version and 32GB version. The Note is only sold as a 16GB version.
I decided multiple times on the SIII 16GB version (I'd add my 32GB microSD to expand the storage), but I kept going back to the Note II and changing my mind.
**Another thing (treat this as a warning): do not get these phones from Verizon. They're a lot more expensive than 3rd party vendors such as Radio Shack and Best Buy. As of 3/5/2013, both Best Buy and Radio Shack sold both SIII versions (the 16GB version for $99 and the other version for $199 -- Verizon sold the 16GB version for $199, AND Verizon only sold the 16GB version). Both of those stores also sold the Note II for $199, whereas Verizon sold it for $299. No-brainer for me...do not buy from Verizon.
So, I decided to get the Note II. I wanted a traditional color, so I got the gray one. I got it yesterday afternoon.
First, it is a BIG phone. It is big, but I love the size of the screen. The extra space is an asset. It is also highly configurable. I thought I liked ICS on the Thunderbolt (it was nice...it was just that it appears that ICS didn't like the phone's hardware)... My Note II is running v4.1.1 (stock ROM, which I'm happy with).
I haven't found anything that I dislike about the phone so far, and I'll looking hard.
I got a case for it as well, the Platinum Series Kickstand Case. At first, I wanted the Samsung flip case, but I read reviews that said that they're not durable. The case that I got is pretty hardcore, but it is hard to remove the bottom portion...not a problem until you have to install or remove the microSD card or battery.
As well, the battery capacity is outstanding. I can probably go 24 hours without recharging the battery, with heavy usage. Wireless reception is very good. 4G reception still needs to be tested (I only have average reception when I'm at home, due to the distance of the tower from the house), but I shouldn't have a problem with that.
All my apps work fine on this phone (I've a crapload of apps, both free and paid).
The camera is outstanding. The screen renders colors the way that most Samsung products do...extremely well.
All I have to do now is get insurance coverage, as I've read that it's a fragile phone. I'll cancel my T-bolt coverage and add the Note II instead.
Overall, I'm very happy with this phone. I'll be studying up on its capabilities by joining web forums that cater to this make and model.
I may donate the T-bolt, but may play with it to experiment with ROMs. I'll have to get another microSD card before I do that, though. At this point I should probably just donate it, because, really, my older iPhones are more capable than the T-bolt. I liked the T-bolt but it got old rather quickly (was already an old phone when I first got it).
** I'm referencing US-spec models.
The Thunderbolt was actually fine until Verizon pushed a 4.0 firmware update (without my knowledge and without prompting me first...if I'd have known, I'd have done some research and postponed the update).
The update caused issues. ICS is designed for multi-core CPUs. The T-bolt is single-core. After the update, I noticed serious lag in response times when clicking on objects. 2-3 seconds of lag, in some cases. I decided to restore back to the factory settings and wipe the microSD card of data. Even after doing that, there was still lag (although not as much...but it was much more random). As well, the battery was draining more quickly than it used to...power consumption was already kinda bad without adding ICS. Sometimes the phone would shut down with little warning. At first, I thought it was a system crash, but began to notice that the battery was dead, even when showing at least 50% power. I don't know if the battery needed to be replaced, but I wasn't about to buy a new one when I was close to being eligible for an upgrade.
So, I was due for an upgrade. The window of the upgrade would open on 3/9. I'd been researching the last 4-5 months and had set my eye on two phones:
Samsung Galaxy SIII
Samsung Galaxy Note II
For those that don't know, both of these phones share the same hardware. The Note II is bigger, though. The SIII has a 4.8" screen and the Note II has a 5.5" screen. The SIII is sold in a 16GB version and 32GB version. The Note is only sold as a 16GB version.
I decided multiple times on the SIII 16GB version (I'd add my 32GB microSD to expand the storage), but I kept going back to the Note II and changing my mind.
**Another thing (treat this as a warning): do not get these phones from Verizon. They're a lot more expensive than 3rd party vendors such as Radio Shack and Best Buy. As of 3/5/2013, both Best Buy and Radio Shack sold both SIII versions (the 16GB version for $99 and the other version for $199 -- Verizon sold the 16GB version for $199, AND Verizon only sold the 16GB version). Both of those stores also sold the Note II for $199, whereas Verizon sold it for $299. No-brainer for me...do not buy from Verizon.
So, I decided to get the Note II. I wanted a traditional color, so I got the gray one. I got it yesterday afternoon.
First, it is a BIG phone. It is big, but I love the size of the screen. The extra space is an asset. It is also highly configurable. I thought I liked ICS on the Thunderbolt (it was nice...it was just that it appears that ICS didn't like the phone's hardware)... My Note II is running v4.1.1 (stock ROM, which I'm happy with).
I haven't found anything that I dislike about the phone so far, and I'll looking hard.
I got a case for it as well, the Platinum Series Kickstand Case. At first, I wanted the Samsung flip case, but I read reviews that said that they're not durable. The case that I got is pretty hardcore, but it is hard to remove the bottom portion...not a problem until you have to install or remove the microSD card or battery.
As well, the battery capacity is outstanding. I can probably go 24 hours without recharging the battery, with heavy usage. Wireless reception is very good. 4G reception still needs to be tested (I only have average reception when I'm at home, due to the distance of the tower from the house), but I shouldn't have a problem with that.
All my apps work fine on this phone (I've a crapload of apps, both free and paid).
The camera is outstanding. The screen renders colors the way that most Samsung products do...extremely well.
All I have to do now is get insurance coverage, as I've read that it's a fragile phone. I'll cancel my T-bolt coverage and add the Note II instead.
Overall, I'm very happy with this phone. I'll be studying up on its capabilities by joining web forums that cater to this make and model.
I may donate the T-bolt, but may play with it to experiment with ROMs. I'll have to get another microSD card before I do that, though. At this point I should probably just donate it, because, really, my older iPhones are more capable than the T-bolt. I liked the T-bolt but it got old rather quickly (was already an old phone when I first got it).
** I'm referencing US-spec models.
Friday, February 15, 2013
Thrustmaster T16000M and Windows 8
They don't mix. I'm trying to fly planes in BF3 again and I didn't have this issue with Windows 7, but within Windows 8, I don't have full rudder control, even if I configure it within BF3.
I've downloaded these (2009_FFD_2.exe...based on the naming convention, these are rather old...Thrustmaster, fix this shit, please) drivers from Thrustmaster's support pages. We'll see if that helps.
EDIT: Yes, the drivers got the rudder to work. BUT! The drivers also appear to be causing some weird issues. For example, whenever I get into a chopper, I occasionally hear my primary weapon being fired (ie, a sniper rifle, for example). Also, once I exit the chopper, I can't sprint or reload a clip...the buttons will not work. I experimented a bit, trying to determine where the issue lied until I realized that the joystick was the factor...when I disconnected the joystick, I found that I could sprint again, and reload a magazine. the sniper firing while piloting a vehicle has stopped. I captured footage of this happening. It's a shame, because I was planning on practicing the upcoming DLC release of End Game. I do not want to have to adapt to flying via mouse...screw that! So, count this as a rather major negative in migrating to Windows 8...this did not occur with Windows 7. Sure, this probably isn't the fault of Microsoft and is more than likely a Thrustmaster driver issue (that I'll report), but it ruins the experience of Windows 8 regardless.
I've downloaded these (2009_FFD_2.exe...based on the naming convention, these are rather old...Thrustmaster, fix this shit, please) drivers from Thrustmaster's support pages. We'll see if that helps.
EDIT: Yes, the drivers got the rudder to work. BUT! The drivers also appear to be causing some weird issues. For example, whenever I get into a chopper, I occasionally hear my primary weapon being fired (ie, a sniper rifle, for example). Also, once I exit the chopper, I can't sprint or reload a clip...the buttons will not work. I experimented a bit, trying to determine where the issue lied until I realized that the joystick was the factor...when I disconnected the joystick, I found that I could sprint again, and reload a magazine. the sniper firing while piloting a vehicle has stopped. I captured footage of this happening. It's a shame, because I was planning on practicing the upcoming DLC release of End Game. I do not want to have to adapt to flying via mouse...screw that! So, count this as a rather major negative in migrating to Windows 8...this did not occur with Windows 7. Sure, this probably isn't the fault of Microsoft and is more than likely a Thrustmaster driver issue (that I'll report), but it ruins the experience of Windows 8 regardless.
Thursday, February 14, 2013
iPhone Lockscreen Can Be Bypassed With New iOS 6.1 trick
And here we go again...
http://www.theverge.com/2013/2/14/3987830/ios-6-1-security-flaw-lets-anyone-make-calls-from-your-iphone
Something very similar happened with iOS 4.2 (see the article for a reference link).
The article also includes video footage of the flaw being taken advantage of.
http://www.theverge.com/2013/2/14/3987830/ios-6-1-security-flaw-lets-anyone-make-calls-from-your-iphone
A security flaw in Apple's iOS 6.1 lets anyone bypass your iPhone password lock and access your phone app, view or modify contacts, check your voicemail, and look through your photos (by attempting to add a photo to a contact).
Something very similar happened with iOS 4.2 (see the article for a reference link).
The article also includes video footage of the flaw being taken advantage of.
Monday, February 11, 2013
Logitech G700
I forgot to mention that I got a new mouse a few weeks ago. The TactX was acting wonky (apparently, the mouse cable tends to wear over time). I was a bit pissed, since I spent a good deal of money on that mouse. It works very well, but I expected it to last much longer. That was the first wired mouse I've owned in awhile, but this time I went back to the tried-and-true wireless mouse.
I bought a Logitech G700, a gaming mouse. And it is badass. It has a replaceable battery and can be charged while using it (via USB cable). It has profiles and has adjustable on-the-fly sensitivity settings. It has this tactile material where your thumb sits that offers nice feedback/grip. It has a ton of buttons. It is heavy, as well, but there's nothing wrong with that.
Loving it so far.
I explain more about it here.
I bought a Logitech G700, a gaming mouse. And it is badass. It has a replaceable battery and can be charged while using it (via USB cable). It has profiles and has adjustable on-the-fly sensitivity settings. It has this tactile material where your thumb sits that offers nice feedback/grip. It has a ton of buttons. It is heavy, as well, but there's nothing wrong with that.
Loving it so far.
I explain more about it here.
Sunday, February 10, 2013
Alienware: Upgraded to Windows 8 Pro
Last month, I saw several posted articles mentioning MS selling upgrades for Windows 8 Pro for $40 ($39.99, actually). I bit. Why? Because it was a good price for an upgrade and if I found I didn't like Windows 8, I could always go back to Windows 7 with little money spent.
The install wasn't bad and wasn't the best either. Since this was an upgrade and it is typically best to use a fresh install, I opted to restore my system back to factory configuration. I did not want any issues with programs that I'd installed in Windows 7 not working in Windows 8. The factory configuration wouldn't negate this but the factory configuration doesn't have as much installed either. So, I whipped out my special flash drive with the copy of the factory image and installed. I then immediately installed Windows 8 from flash drive as well (to speed up the install). It was rather cumbersome and long, even via flash drive, but it installed flawlessly.
Afterward, I checked to see what wasn't running against the listing of what Windows 8 had flagged that might not work. Alien Respawn wasn't working. I'll have to get a Win8-specific copy of that and install it. Everything else worked.
I then installed my free copy of Windows 8 Media Center. When I entered the product key, it conflicted with the product key for Windows 8 Pro, which I thought was odd. Many people were complaining of the same issue and there were some solutions but none worked for me. Apparently, the system didn't like being upgraded then immediately having Media Center added. So, I had to call the automated Microsoft number listed in System Information (I believe...I'll check that and correct myself if I'm wrong). I called the number and followed the instructions. I had to key in 8 or 9 five-digit codes via phone keypad, then the automated system read back 8 or 9 five-digit codes that I keyed into the config window. After I did that, the system properly registered!
I did NOT like Metro. I know there's a way to remove it, but I'm now getting used to it and I think it is oddly intuitive. I'll keep using it for now. What I also like is the Windows 7 shell...I can fall back to that when I feel the need. Chrome only works within the Windows 7 shell, which I don't like, but it's not a huge deal.
The system appears to be quite a deal quicker, but I've never benchmarked Windows 7 on this system and haven't benchmarked Windows 8 either. Note that I'm not using an SSD (I'm running two 750GB drives in RAID0). SSD will not help me all that much...it's not going to make my gameplay any faster (only upload faster, but really, that's nota huge deal for me). One day, I'll go the SSD route, but I want lots of drive space and SSDs aren't cutting it in that department yet.
So, I'm keeping Windows 8 for now. I may even reinstall it just to get a pristine image of it captured onto flash drive (backup copy).
The install wasn't bad and wasn't the best either. Since this was an upgrade and it is typically best to use a fresh install, I opted to restore my system back to factory configuration. I did not want any issues with programs that I'd installed in Windows 7 not working in Windows 8. The factory configuration wouldn't negate this but the factory configuration doesn't have as much installed either. So, I whipped out my special flash drive with the copy of the factory image and installed. I then immediately installed Windows 8 from flash drive as well (to speed up the install). It was rather cumbersome and long, even via flash drive, but it installed flawlessly.
Afterward, I checked to see what wasn't running against the listing of what Windows 8 had flagged that might not work. Alien Respawn wasn't working. I'll have to get a Win8-specific copy of that and install it. Everything else worked.
I then installed my free copy of Windows 8 Media Center. When I entered the product key, it conflicted with the product key for Windows 8 Pro, which I thought was odd. Many people were complaining of the same issue and there were some solutions but none worked for me. Apparently, the system didn't like being upgraded then immediately having Media Center added. So, I had to call the automated Microsoft number listed in System Information (I believe...I'll check that and correct myself if I'm wrong). I called the number and followed the instructions. I had to key in 8 or 9 five-digit codes via phone keypad, then the automated system read back 8 or 9 five-digit codes that I keyed into the config window. After I did that, the system properly registered!
I did NOT like Metro. I know there's a way to remove it, but I'm now getting used to it and I think it is oddly intuitive. I'll keep using it for now. What I also like is the Windows 7 shell...I can fall back to that when I feel the need. Chrome only works within the Windows 7 shell, which I don't like, but it's not a huge deal.
The system appears to be quite a deal quicker, but I've never benchmarked Windows 7 on this system and haven't benchmarked Windows 8 either. Note that I'm not using an SSD (I'm running two 750GB drives in RAID0). SSD will not help me all that much...it's not going to make my gameplay any faster (only upload faster, but really, that's nota huge deal for me). One day, I'll go the SSD route, but I want lots of drive space and SSDs aren't cutting it in that department yet.
So, I'm keeping Windows 8 for now. I may even reinstall it just to get a pristine image of it captured onto flash drive (backup copy).
Friday, January 11, 2013
Apple Disables Java
http://slackfiles.blogspot.com/2013/01/apple-disables-java.html
Posted on my security blog, but since this applies to Apple, I decided to link that blog entry here.
Posted on my security blog, but since this applies to Apple, I decided to link that blog entry here.
Saturday, December 29, 2012
iMac Repair, Part II
Reference http://whitemacbook.blogspot.com/2012/08/imac-repaired.html.
So, not long after I got a replacement drive installed in my iMac, Apple sent me an e-mail stating there was a recall on the drives of certain iMacs. WTF. They replaced the drive then want to replace it again??? It means I'll have to pack up and haul the damned thing back to the Apple store again. That was a pain in the ass last time and it'll be a pain in the ass again. The iMac is working fine now, but eventually I will have to commit to participating in the recall. :(
I'll have to research on how to restore using Time Machine, since I lost my backups after the last repair (the damned thing wiped out my backups to backup a fresh hard drive!).
So, not long after I got a replacement drive installed in my iMac, Apple sent me an e-mail stating there was a recall on the drives of certain iMacs. WTF. They replaced the drive then want to replace it again??? It means I'll have to pack up and haul the damned thing back to the Apple store again. That was a pain in the ass last time and it'll be a pain in the ass again. The iMac is working fine now, but eventually I will have to commit to participating in the recall. :(
I'll have to research on how to restore using Time Machine, since I lost my backups after the last repair (the damned thing wiped out my backups to backup a fresh hard drive!).
Friday, December 28, 2012
White iPad Mini
I'm the new owner of a white iPad Mini. It is the wifi-only version and is 64GB in capacity.
This replaces my 32GB 1G iPad (full-sized). That unit is now my son's (on loan...if he misbehaves, I will take it back and sell it).
I'll be reviewing the Mini when time permits.
I still use the following, as well:
This replaces my 32GB 1G iPad (full-sized). That unit is now my son's (on loan...if he misbehaves, I will take it back and sell it).
I'll be reviewing the Mini when time permits.
I still use the following, as well:
- iPod Classic 30GB - car jukebox, since it has lots of space.
- iPhone 3GS 32GB - car jukebox, since it also has bluetooth.
- White Macbook Core Duo - I still use it ocassionally, although it has been replaced by my Alienware M17x R3.
- iMac 27" - I use this when I really need screen real estate...but the Alienware is faster and I use it more often than the iMac. I use it as an additional screen as well, specifically when playing BF3.
My daughters got iPad Mini (wifi-only, 16GB models, one white and one black), as well.
Then, my wife went a bit crazy. She initially bought the girls their Minis. I saw them and played with them, then decided I might want one. She ordered me one but the order didn't go through properly, so it was cancelled...it was also white when I wanted black. She ordered a black 32GB and then changed her mind and decided to get another that was 64GB, with plans on returning the 32GB model. Well, a few days before Christmas, she presented them to me both as early presents. I was to pick one of them. The only thing was, she couldn't find a black 64GB...they only had white. I was expecting a black one but not expecting her to get a 64GB version. I opted for the 64GB version, even though it was white. I also mentioned to her that the 32GB unit was actually marked as 16GB...they shipped her the wrong one. She pannicked, because the receipt stated she purchased a 32GB unit and she thought they'd reject her claim. She called them and it took awhile for them to process the RMA...in the meantime, they sent her the proper unit, so that when she returned them, it would be less of an issue. So she has two extra iPads (that need to be returned). I got a headache when trying to track all that! :)
Currently, I'm trying to back up my 1G iPad and iPod Classic. This is difficult, as the iPad is now backing up to iCloud and I've to determine how to generate a local backup without duplicating music/vids/books. As well, iPads and iPhones always want to back up from iTunes. That's a problem, because my iMac's hard drive had to be replaced by Apple and I lost all my data (and Time Machine backups). I think I did a write-up a few years ago on how to restore data from the iPhone back into iTunes...I just need to find it.
EDIT ---
So, I found the write-up: http://whitemacbook.blogspot.com/2008/05/itunes-issues.html
There's a problem, though. I've over 1500 tracks that need to be backed up. Senuti will only back up 1000 tracks, unless you purchase a license. I didn't want to have to fork over $20 for this, especially since I've only used this program twice in 4+ years. I'll look at other options listed in my write-up and purchase a Senuti license as a last resort. Another issue is that Windows will NOT sync my iPod Classic since it is running a Macintosh OS...I'd have to wipe the drive before I can use it in Windows, so I've no choice but to use my iMac (not a problem in itself, but that means I can't use SharePod, since it's a Windows-only app.
EDIT 2 ---
Oh shit...there are methods of doing this from the terminal!! I'm done...no need to purchase Senuti or any other program, if I'm reading the directions correctly...gonna give the following a shot:
**from http://guides.macrumors.com/Recovering_Songs_from_an_iPod**
===
EDIT 3 ---
Yep! Worked! Backing up the files and storing onto my backup drive. Will also transfer the files from this system to my Alienware, so I can put them on my Mini.
EDIT ---
So, I found the write-up: http://whitemacbook.blogspot.com/2008/05/itunes-issues.html
There's a problem, though. I've over 1500 tracks that need to be backed up. Senuti will only back up 1000 tracks, unless you purchase a license. I didn't want to have to fork over $20 for this, especially since I've only used this program twice in 4+ years. I'll look at other options listed in my write-up and purchase a Senuti license as a last resort. Another issue is that Windows will NOT sync my iPod Classic since it is running a Macintosh OS...I'd have to wipe the drive before I can use it in Windows, so I've no choice but to use my iMac (not a problem in itself, but that means I can't use SharePod, since it's a Windows-only app.
EDIT 2 ---
Oh shit...there are methods of doing this from the terminal!! I'm done...no need to purchase Senuti or any other program, if I'm reading the directions correctly...gonna give the following a shot:
**from http://guides.macrumors.com/Recovering_Songs_from_an_iPod**
===
The iPod songs are hidden away on your iPod in an invisible folder, ie one that the Finder won't display normally. It is possible to let the Finder display hidden files as outlined in this guide or with 3rd Party Software. Otherwise you can follow the below instructions.
All songs are stored in this location:
/Volumes/[YouriPodName]/iPod_Control/Music
In this folder are a number of folders usually labelled from F00 to F49 or higher. The songs are actually stored in these folders with obscure names that are usually not relevant to the song.
To copy these songs using the Terminal, follow these steps:
- Launch Terminal which is located at /Applications/Utilities/Terminal
- Type in (replacing [YouriPodName] with the name of your iPod)
cd /Volumes/[YouriPodName]/iPod_Control
- To copy the music to your Desktop, type in
rsync -r Music ~/Desktop
- Once the rsync command has completed, drag the Music folder on your Desktop onto the iTunes icon on the Dock or in Finder
- Wait while iTunes imports all the songs
Notes:
- This method does not recover your playlists, ratings or play count.
- If you use the standard copy command "cp", it will copy the special hidden flag and not allow you to see the folder in the Finder.
- This method does not work for the iPhone or iPod Touch, as they do not have "disk mode".
[edit]
===
I'll confirm if this works, but I'm already within the Music/ directory within the command-line interface.
EDIT 3 ---
Yep! Worked! Backing up the files and storing onto my backup drive. Will also transfer the files from this system to my Alienware, so I can put them on my Mini.
Friday, August 17, 2012
Verizon Mifi
I mentioned earlier that I've a few new toys. One of them is a Verizon Mifi. I got the 890L, which is the black top and red bottom device.
I went to get a new holster for my phone...mine had recently broken. While at the Verizon shop, the salesman looked at my account and offered me a plan refinement, which I took. The adjustment allowed me to purchase a Mifi...in fact, I cut off $50 when adjusting the plan (employee discount helped a ton there), then I used the $50 to get the Mifi. I also got a $50 rebate, so really, I got the Mifi for free.
It uses my current data allocation and I can use it when I go on vacation when there's no internet. I can tether my iPod to it, or my iPad. My wife can tie her Kindles to it. My daughter can tether her Nook to it. I've warned them to not stream videos and music when tethered to the Mifi, though...I don't want them using all my bandwidth. I can also use it for work when I'm traveling on business (or if I need to do some emergency work while on vacation). I can use it to access the internet using my iPad when I'm at autocross meets, too, which I actually welcome. I can tether up to 10 devices to it.
The Mifi is extremely easy to tether to. I gave it a test run while at work, tethering it to my iPad since I can't get a wifi connection from my cube. It worked quite well.
I also can use my existing Verizon phone's charge cable to charge it (basically, it can use any micro-usb charging cable). I've no idea how long of a charge it has and how long it can keep a charge with a tethered device connected to it (without the Mifi charging). We'll eventually find out, although I do NOT want to hit my bandwidth limit.
Another thing: I can update my data plan to 4GB if I have to, for only $20. I'm on the 2GB plan now, and my data usage trend is 1GB/month on the average, so if I find I'm toeing the limit, I'll get a notice on my phone, then if I have to, I'll either stop using the Mifi for that month or upgrade to the 4GB plan.
I'll keep you informed of my Mifi usage and the positives and negative.
I went to get a new holster for my phone...mine had recently broken. While at the Verizon shop, the salesman looked at my account and offered me a plan refinement, which I took. The adjustment allowed me to purchase a Mifi...in fact, I cut off $50 when adjusting the plan (employee discount helped a ton there), then I used the $50 to get the Mifi. I also got a $50 rebate, so really, I got the Mifi for free.
It uses my current data allocation and I can use it when I go on vacation when there's no internet. I can tether my iPod to it, or my iPad. My wife can tie her Kindles to it. My daughter can tether her Nook to it. I've warned them to not stream videos and music when tethered to the Mifi, though...I don't want them using all my bandwidth. I can also use it for work when I'm traveling on business (or if I need to do some emergency work while on vacation). I can use it to access the internet using my iPad when I'm at autocross meets, too, which I actually welcome. I can tether up to 10 devices to it.
The Mifi is extremely easy to tether to. I gave it a test run while at work, tethering it to my iPad since I can't get a wifi connection from my cube. It worked quite well.
I also can use my existing Verizon phone's charge cable to charge it (basically, it can use any micro-usb charging cable). I've no idea how long of a charge it has and how long it can keep a charge with a tethered device connected to it (without the Mifi charging). We'll eventually find out, although I do NOT want to hit my bandwidth limit.
Another thing: I can update my data plan to 4GB if I have to, for only $20. I'm on the 2GB plan now, and my data usage trend is 1GB/month on the average, so if I find I'm toeing the limit, I'll get a notice on my phone, then if I have to, I'll either stop using the Mifi for that month or upgrade to the 4GB plan.
I'll keep you informed of my Mifi usage and the positives and negative.
iMovie and GoPro
So, I got me a new toy (several, actually): a GoPro Hero 2 HD Motorsports Edition.
I've been getting some driving footage during my commutes to/from work, just to get a feel for how to use the GoPro. I got about a bit over an hour of footage and only wanted to collect up the footage of my car's exhaust (Subaru Impreza STI).
I tried to use VirtualDub on the Alienware, but VirtualDub doesn't like the .mp4 format that the GoPro utilizes. I tried to use VideoPad, but and it's conversion tool (converting it to .mpeg) but Windows Media Player doesn't like the conversion. So, I tried using the tools on my Macbook...bad move. For one, the Macbook seems to be seriously under-powered when it comes to video editing. My Macbook also doesn't come with iMovie (using Snow Leopard...the max OS X version it can utilize, which doesn't come with iMovie). What's funny is that the wife's Macbook DOES have iMovie, and is an actual C2D system, while my Macbook is just a Core Duo system, which came in the first generation Macbooks. So, next I tried my iMac. I found that it had iMovie (it is running Mountain Lion). It also did not bog in the least when it came to creating the montage I had in mind. It was much easier to use than VirtualDub, as the interface is decently intuitive.
It took awhile to get the video footage from the SD card of my GoPro to the iMac, though...the files were rather large (recorded in 1080p at 30fps), so I went to bed while the files were transferring. The next day, after work, I began to edit the files, which didn't take all that long. I took about 8.5 minutes worth of clips and consolidated them, putting in the transitions I wanted. I then finalized my project at 1080p/30fps, which took about 3 hours to do (went to bed while it was finalizing). The next day, I reviewed the final product and it was very nice.
I uploaded it to YouTube. It is here. While it is not raw, there is no music (I wanted to capture the that boxer rumble), as well as no annotations or text comments. There's no title either. I'll experiment with all of this sometime soon.
I'll be messing with iMovie a lot more when I get more footage, as I plan to use the GoPro when I have autocross meets and when I ride the motorcycle. Maybe I'll play with VirtualDub and VideoPad a bit more, but I'm thinking iMovie is the best of the three tools...I do want to try to use the Alienware to edit videos, though, especially when/if I'm not home. The laptop is my strongest system, so it may just outperform the iMac when using iMovie.
Now, let me tell you about this particular GoPro.
It is NICE! I bought some accessories with it: 16GB SD card, as well as 2 extra batteries and a wall charger. The Motorsports Edition comes with a bunch of accessories as well. It comes with a suction cup mount, which has several bendable joints, including where the camera attaches to it. It comes with several more permanent mount points (straight and curved) that you can stick to almost anything. It comes with a back plate that allows sound into the protective case (the standard back plate makes the case water-proof, though). There's a charging cable that I can use to connect to a computer to download the pictures from the camera, instead of removing the SD card. That same cable will also charge the battery within 4 hours (provided the camera isn't currently being used).
The camera can take pictures, can be adjusted to take, for example, a picture every second or every 5 seconds (for time lapse vids)...up to a picture every 60 seconds. It has various HD video configurations or can take VGA video. It can do up to 60fps with certain HD video settings. I believe it can take up to 11 megapixel pictures. The max size of SD card allowed is 16GB. I can take up to 4 hours of video footage, depending on how I'm using the camera.
The suction cup mount can be used on my motorcycle's fuel tank (that's about the only place it can go, since I've no fairings, although I could mount it on the tail of the bike, if need be). The tank might be the best mount place, since I've seen much bike video footage that has a LOT of wind noise. I can purchase several mounting accessories for motorcyling, too (helmet mount or chest-mount straps).
About the only thing I'm worried about is if the suction cup fails if I decide to mount the camera outside the car. I'm thinking of fashioning a tether, but I don't want a huge dent in my car's aluminum, either. I'm gonna have to think this through.
I really can't wait to test this thing out some more, but I'm going to have to wait about a month before I can do autocross footage.
I've been getting some driving footage during my commutes to/from work, just to get a feel for how to use the GoPro. I got about a bit over an hour of footage and only wanted to collect up the footage of my car's exhaust (Subaru Impreza STI).
I tried to use VirtualDub on the Alienware, but VirtualDub doesn't like the .mp4 format that the GoPro utilizes. I tried to use VideoPad, but and it's conversion tool (converting it to .mpeg) but Windows Media Player doesn't like the conversion. So, I tried using the tools on my Macbook...bad move. For one, the Macbook seems to be seriously under-powered when it comes to video editing. My Macbook also doesn't come with iMovie (using Snow Leopard...the max OS X version it can utilize, which doesn't come with iMovie). What's funny is that the wife's Macbook DOES have iMovie, and is an actual C2D system, while my Macbook is just a Core Duo system, which came in the first generation Macbooks. So, next I tried my iMac. I found that it had iMovie (it is running Mountain Lion). It also did not bog in the least when it came to creating the montage I had in mind. It was much easier to use than VirtualDub, as the interface is decently intuitive.
It took awhile to get the video footage from the SD card of my GoPro to the iMac, though...the files were rather large (recorded in 1080p at 30fps), so I went to bed while the files were transferring. The next day, after work, I began to edit the files, which didn't take all that long. I took about 8.5 minutes worth of clips and consolidated them, putting in the transitions I wanted. I then finalized my project at 1080p/30fps, which took about 3 hours to do (went to bed while it was finalizing). The next day, I reviewed the final product and it was very nice.
I uploaded it to YouTube. It is here. While it is not raw, there is no music (I wanted to capture the that boxer rumble), as well as no annotations or text comments. There's no title either. I'll experiment with all of this sometime soon.
I'll be messing with iMovie a lot more when I get more footage, as I plan to use the GoPro when I have autocross meets and when I ride the motorcycle. Maybe I'll play with VirtualDub and VideoPad a bit more, but I'm thinking iMovie is the best of the three tools...I do want to try to use the Alienware to edit videos, though, especially when/if I'm not home. The laptop is my strongest system, so it may just outperform the iMac when using iMovie.
Now, let me tell you about this particular GoPro.
It is NICE! I bought some accessories with it: 16GB SD card, as well as 2 extra batteries and a wall charger. The Motorsports Edition comes with a bunch of accessories as well. It comes with a suction cup mount, which has several bendable joints, including where the camera attaches to it. It comes with several more permanent mount points (straight and curved) that you can stick to almost anything. It comes with a back plate that allows sound into the protective case (the standard back plate makes the case water-proof, though). There's a charging cable that I can use to connect to a computer to download the pictures from the camera, instead of removing the SD card. That same cable will also charge the battery within 4 hours (provided the camera isn't currently being used).
The camera can take pictures, can be adjusted to take, for example, a picture every second or every 5 seconds (for time lapse vids)...up to a picture every 60 seconds. It has various HD video configurations or can take VGA video. It can do up to 60fps with certain HD video settings. I believe it can take up to 11 megapixel pictures. The max size of SD card allowed is 16GB. I can take up to 4 hours of video footage, depending on how I'm using the camera.
The suction cup mount can be used on my motorcycle's fuel tank (that's about the only place it can go, since I've no fairings, although I could mount it on the tail of the bike, if need be). The tank might be the best mount place, since I've seen much bike video footage that has a LOT of wind noise. I can purchase several mounting accessories for motorcyling, too (helmet mount or chest-mount straps).
About the only thing I'm worried about is if the suction cup fails if I decide to mount the camera outside the car. I'm thinking of fashioning a tether, but I don't want a huge dent in my car's aluminum, either. I'm gonna have to think this through.
I really can't wait to test this thing out some more, but I'm going to have to wait about a month before I can do autocross footage.
Monday, August 06, 2012
iMac Repaired
I got my iMac back last Thursday, but was unable to do anything more than pick it up from the Apple Store, since I had to immediately go on bereavement leave. I got back home today and I've just now finished installing Mountain Lion. It is NICE!
Yes, my hard disk had to be replaced, but I've verified that S.M.A.R.T. isn't showing errors. I'm now installing patches and will go through Time Machine to determine what I wanted restored to the drive...this'll be a week-long process.
So, stay tuned for whining and praises of Mountain Lion!
Yes, my hard disk had to be replaced, but I've verified that S.M.A.R.T. isn't showing errors. I'm now installing patches and will go through Time Machine to determine what I wanted restored to the drive...this'll be a week-long process.
So, stay tuned for whining and praises of Mountain Lion!
Wednesday, August 01, 2012
iMac showing SMART failure
Wow...this is the second time in a row where I'm having drive issues with my Mac. The firs time, it was my Macbook, where the drive outright failed. This time, it is my iMac.
I purchased Mountain Lion two days ago. I began to download it last night to install on my iMac and during the install process, I was asked to select where to install ML, so I selected the main drive. A pop-up appeared stating there were errors on the drive and that failure was imminent. It would not let me install.
So, I've made an appointment to the local (if you want to call it that) Genius Bar, for tomorrow morning. I've to pack up the 27" iMac and tote it to the Genius Bar. That's going to be a bit of a PITA. Then I'm probably going to be told that they'll have my iMac for a week or so...let's not hope I have to go through the same situation as my last visit.
Now, this problem is rampant on the Apple.com forums, as well as MacRumors.com. Many people were blaming Lion, but some people were running Snow Leopard when this occurred. I don't believe it is any Mac OS version, but something isn't quite right here. Many people were affected by this. The culprit is either a bad batch of drives, which Apple has a "recall" on (my system didn't qualify for this recall...weird), or a cooling issue that is adversely affecting hard drives, as many have complained that their systems are running excessively hot. Many people have also stated that OS X is becoming smart enough to actually correctly assess imminent drive failure (whereas the previous OSs were not able to do this consistently). That only partially explains the large amount of drive failure complaints...what's causing the failures?
Another thing: I have no idea how long my machine has been showing "fail" as a SMART status. You'd think the user/admin would be prompted somehow that there's an issue related to drive failure. I wasn't made aware until I tried to install v10.8. An admin shouldn't have to check the SMART status daily, weekly, or even monthly. Really...this is 2012 and an OS should somehow convey (proactively) the nature of such a status.
I've Time Machine, so I've a backup.
I purchased Mountain Lion two days ago. I began to download it last night to install on my iMac and during the install process, I was asked to select where to install ML, so I selected the main drive. A pop-up appeared stating there were errors on the drive and that failure was imminent. It would not let me install.
So, I've made an appointment to the local (if you want to call it that) Genius Bar, for tomorrow morning. I've to pack up the 27" iMac and tote it to the Genius Bar. That's going to be a bit of a PITA. Then I'm probably going to be told that they'll have my iMac for a week or so...let's not hope I have to go through the same situation as my last visit.
Now, this problem is rampant on the Apple.com forums, as well as MacRumors.com. Many people were blaming Lion, but some people were running Snow Leopard when this occurred. I don't believe it is any Mac OS version, but something isn't quite right here. Many people were affected by this. The culprit is either a bad batch of drives, which Apple has a "recall" on (my system didn't qualify for this recall...weird), or a cooling issue that is adversely affecting hard drives, as many have complained that their systems are running excessively hot. Many people have also stated that OS X is becoming smart enough to actually correctly assess imminent drive failure (whereas the previous OSs were not able to do this consistently). That only partially explains the large amount of drive failure complaints...what's causing the failures?
Another thing: I have no idea how long my machine has been showing "fail" as a SMART status. You'd think the user/admin would be prompted somehow that there's an issue related to drive failure. I wasn't made aware until I tried to install v10.8. An admin shouldn't have to check the SMART status daily, weekly, or even monthly. Really...this is 2012 and an OS should somehow convey (proactively) the nature of such a status.
I've Time Machine, so I've a backup.
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